One of the most significant products of 2010...

Aug 12, 2010,09:00 AM
 

is the TAG Heuer Carrera 1887. I mention this in the upcoming Business Times watch supplement to be published on 27 August in Singapore.

When the 1887 calibre went online in December 2009, it caused an uproar. Beginning on certain French watch forums and spreading quickly, the news got out that the new Calibre 1887 from TAG Heuer was not what it was cracked up to be. Nowhere in the press release did it state that the movement was based on a Seiko movement, the 6S37. Even though TAG Heuer would manufacture the movement itself in Switzerland, it only licensed the intellectual property from Seiko, the movement remained similar enough to the Seiko 6S37 for denizens of watch forums to notice.

The resulting furore brings to mind several questions. If one of the Switzerland's leading mass luxury watchmakers, and one of the largest in terms of output, can license technology from Seiko, will others do the same? But TAG Heuer is more open minded in its sourcing of components and technology, so it may be the exception.

Or might this provide a springboard for Seiko to market its upper end products overseas, since it now has some form high-end legitimacy? The 1887 is in many ways a more sophisticated movement than the Valjoux 7750 it replaces.

At the same time, the fiasco brought home the power of internet forums. Jean Christophe Babin himself responded on some of the forums. Several industry insiders mentioned this episode in discussions throughout 2010. One independent watchmaker branded this an wake-up call for the industry which has become complacent in its assumption on consumers' disinterest. This has caused ripples in a insular industry and many will proceed with care now.

The irony is the 1887 is actually an extremely competitive product. It is priced at a modest premium above the Valjoux 7750-based Carrera chronograph, making it good value. The new 1887 movement with column wheel and vertical is superior in terms of construction to the Valjoux. At its price point the 1887 is certainly one of the most interesting options and probably the most significant product in its class.

- SJX

 



































This message has been edited by SJX on 2010-08-12 09:37:22

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Comments: view entire thread

 

And a more innovative product...

 
 By: SJX : August 12th, 2010-09:13
but one that remains a concept. The idea is a magnet-driven balance wheel on a Unitas base thus obliviating the need for a hairspring. The result is the TAG Heuer Pendulum Concept. From what I understand it essentially comprises four magnets that attract/...  

Sometimes you don't need to re-invent the wheel...

 
 By: chaser579 : August 12th, 2010-11:32
..you simply need to re-tread it! =:^D

Generally, and overall, TAG have been progressive not only

 
 By: 219 : August 13th, 2010-06:56
in watch technology but also in other areas such as sunglasses and mobile phones. I have a pair of the sunglasses and the 'wrap around' part from rubber is both useful (does not move) and very comfortable. Likewise, although I am not in the market for a l... 

The Meridist phone

 
 By: SJX : August 13th, 2010-22:58
is fairly well received amongst the folk who buy such phones; it compares well to Vertu in terms of build quality. - SJX

i humbly disagree!!

 
 By: Hororgasm : August 14th, 2010-10:00
tag phone is better designed though, but built quality...Vertu is MUCH better

very neat concept

 
 By: Tony A.H : August 13th, 2010-15:25
i like what TAG comes out with every once in a while. they are innovative for sure.. thanks for the Pictures.

Thanks JX

 
 By: DaMctosh : August 12th, 2010-09:47
well Tag must have been sure about this to put the calibre no. on the dial.

Maybe embarrassing for TAG-H, but good for the industry...

 
 By: DonCorson : August 12th, 2010-09:56
Good points JX. I followed the whole thing in real time on the French forums. It was very interesting to note that the uproar was not about a movement with Seiko based IP in a Swiss watch, but that TAG's communication tried to hide this fact. We can only ... 

haven't heard about this...

 
 By: ocwatching : August 12th, 2010-13:23
but sounds like it was poorly handled by Tag-H was the general feeling that the Seiko movement is well respected?

Yes indeed

 
 By: SJX : August 13th, 2010-22:57
the Seiko movement is arguably the most sophisticated automatic chronograph calibre in the price range. - SJX

Happened before, it'll happen again.

 
 By: BDLJ : August 12th, 2010-16:27
This has happened in the past with a few brands placing Seiko Chronographs behind their dials. See the Mantagraph below...and then there's the JLC calibre with what seems to be a Magic Lever... Alway seem to be photographed so the rotor obscures the Magic...  

Richemont and the Magic Lever

 
 By: SJX : August 13th, 2010-23:03
Several Richemont brands, including JLC, IWC, Cartier and Panerai, use Magic Lever like winding mechanisms in their newer movements (the work of ValFleurier SA perhaps). But there is no claim that this is unique to any of those brands, and privately some ... 

Good point...

 
 By: BDLJ : August 16th, 2010-01:17
...well made, SJX. Again, I follow Don's opinion - the more options and designs out there, the better. The origins of a movement don't concern me. Only how the movement is used, and how those origins are portrayed.

What about swiss made with a Seiko inside?

 
 By: amerix : August 14th, 2010-09:20
No, seriously - from what I have heard, Tag Heuer bought the rights to the design from Seiko and were free to adapt or "improve" upon it according to their own wishes. Very few parts, if any, had to be imported, at least in the initial development stages.... 

Seiko and single malts

 
 By: SJX : August 14th, 2010-20:27
Strictly speaking the TAG Heuer 1887 is a Swiss made movement, even if the design/ideas are Japanese. The way Seiko markets its terrific products is almost non-marketing; there is a build it and they will come mentality. But consumers need road signs poin... 

Honesty matters. So does doing your own design

 
 By: jkingston : August 15th, 2010-08:18
This is all a matter of personal opinion, so you are free to disagree as I express mine. First, announcing a movement as being your own without disclosing that you have licensed someone else's design is dishonest. Plain and simple. Second, I am not impres... 

Jeff, I agree with you

 
 By: SJX : August 15th, 2010-08:39
I made two points. The first being the watch is significant because it a) shows the power of the internet, b) is the first for a mass luxury brand using a Seiko/Japanese movement. Secondly I am of the opinion the watch itself, considered in isolation with...