Horological Meandering

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The Alexandre Meerson Altitude Première Small Seconds: the first steps of a new brand

It takes a great deal of courage to launch a new brand in a depressed watch market. And it is the objective of Alexandre Meerson who took advantage of SalonQP 2014 to launch his collection of watches that are based on two models: the Altitude Première and the Altitude Officier. The desire to express his own ideas, to make concrete projects was much stronger than the fear due to a difficult economic environment. And such an approach was included in his DNA as his father started a watches and jewelry creation business in the 50s.  So, Alexandre Meerson worked to get the best chance to continue the family tradition by selecting  rigorously partners and devoting a lot of care in the aesthetic approach of his watches. Because, to add a huge difficulty to acheive his ambition, the initial and fundamental segment in which Alexander Meerson wishes to play is the one of the simple and elegant watches with  strong watchmaking content.

Pink Gold Altitude Première Small Seconds (the pictured watch is a prototype and  has been worn by Alexandre Meerson for several months):






Indeed, I know no more delicate matter than that designed a successful two or three hands watch. It finally offers fewer opportunities to differentiate and the creator must always work with subtlety to succeed in his objective. In addition, this  specific segment could not be busier , already occupied especially by main and prestigious players which, thanks  to the strength of their names, can seduce a captive clientele.





In fact, the presentation of his first watches allowed to Alexandre Meerson to send several messages to the attention of the market and of the traditional watchmaking lovers:

 - the will  is not to have one or two watches but to build a brand. As such, both Altitude watches include some aesthetic features that help define the identity of the brand.
 - If the watches look very classic at first glance, they have several original details such as the typical lugs.
 - the offer will remain exclusive with an inaugural collection that will not exceed 249 watches.
  - a certain degree of customization is available since several combinations of materials, complications, dial colors are possible. The bezel material may even be different from the one of the case.
- the automatic movements that power the Altitude watches come from Vaucher what gives them a watchmaking interest and a guarantee of sustainability.
 - finally, the great asset of the Altitude watches is the care to detail.






The Altitude Première Small Seconds aptly illustrates the Alexander Meerson's approach. What is surprising at first glance is the shape of the lugs. Vintage watches fans have already seen similar lugs but they are extremely rare in today's context. They have several virtues. They give the impression that the strap has a special shape which is not the case as a classic bracelet with the suitable size will match. They improve the comfort on the wrist thanks to the "rotational freedom" they give the bracelet. And they complete the case design reinforcing its "roundness". These lugs are playing on the contrast between their very geometric appearance and the case shape. They don't belong to the continuity of the case and this clean aesthetic break was sought to highlight the central part of the watch. Finally, when we observe the  Altitude Première side in profile, the lugs then evoke the shape of the foot of a dancer doing a pointe. A small discreet coquetry in the spirit of the collection.






The 4N pink gold case with a diameter of 41mm is more complex than it seems at first glance. The raised bezel creates a sort of gadroon and brings a touch of character. The shape of the caseback is also interesting to analyze. The central portion in contact with the skin, is oval and curved in order to improve the comfort. It provides the same opportunity to enjoy nice alternating polished and brushed effects.

The dial has a traditional combination of baton hour markers and dauphine hands. Traditional? Not so much because finally some surprises lurk here and there. The 12 on  the top of the dial first. Its sharp shape evokes those of the lugs but more especifically the 2 appears as a stylized Z. This is obviously not a coincidence, since it is the first letter of the middle name of Alexander Meerson. The applied indexes, beveled, long and fine play a dual role. They contribute significantly to the perceived quality of the watch and they mitigate the perceived size of the case as they are closer to the second hand sector.

Another atmosphere with titanium version:






I consider this sector as too close to the center, a sign that the movement is small for the case. It is on this model with small seconds that this is most noticeable as peripheral figures of the Altitude Officier and the absence of  second hands on other Altitude Première softens this feeling.

The other big surprise  proposed by the dial is the pair of asymmetric hands. Typical of the brand, they are distinguished by the matt / gloss contrast that makes them most present on the dial and improves readability. I must admit that the result is very convincing as the readability is achieved without altering the color harmony of the watch. The set appears as pure and elegant, without a hitch. I also appreciate the reasonable size of the brand name on the dial. New brands tend  to over emphasize thier names or logos and at the end make a design fault.





Given the quality of the elements and the harmonious aesthetics, Alexandre Meerson could not afford to use a standard movement. The desire was not to be perceived as a new manufacture. The Altitude Première including the Small Seconds one are powered by an automatic movement from Vaucher with a 4hz frequency and a power reserve of fifty hours.  Named AM4808 in this context, it is distinguished by its thinness (3.7mm) which allows  to give a slender style to the case. In addition, it uses two barrels whose purpose is not to increase the power reserve but to get a better torque and a more stable timekeeping. Its winding efficiency is excellent and, except if we consider the  25,6mm  diameter too small in this case, it appears to be an ideal engine for the Altitude Première. Its finishings are like the other components of the watch: simple and refined, with no flashy effect. Maybe I would have preferred a little more daring decoration for the rotor that does not stand out enough from the plate and bridges of the movement.


For the reasons mentioned above, the wearing comfort of the Altitude Première Small Seconds is flawless. The watch is well positioned on the wrist thanks to the slightly curved caseback and the flexibility of the bracelet. It exudes a somewhat paradoxical impression which explains his interest: it is at the same time very present while remaining visually quite contained. The shape of the lugs is obviously for many but the consistency and stylistic mastery demonstrated by Alexandre Meerson are the main causes.





I was very seduced by the Altitude Première Small Seconds and more broadly, by the inaugural collection of Alexander Meerson. Tackling a very difficult exercise of style, the one  of the simple dress watch, he succeeded in his objective thanks to the quality of execution and of finishings to offer convincing pieces. But its greatest asset remains the maturity of the stylistic approach that manages to find the delicate balance between classicism and original details.


Thanks to Alexander Meerson for his availability at the SalonQP and during the presentation of the collection at the Bon Marché in Paris.

Pros:
+ A high execution quality
+ The Subtle finishing details of the dial, hands and case
+ The comfort on the wrist
+ The Performance and efficiency of the Vaucher movement

Cons:
- The movement is a little too small for a 41mm case and it is perceived  due to the location of the small second sector
- I would have liked a more daring decorative approach of the rotor

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