Care & Feeding of a Watch Collection 1: Introduction & Overview

Mar 01, 2015,16:58 PM
 

Care & Feeding of a Watch Collection 1: Introduction & Overview




Hi, my name is Mike and I am a watch collector (audience claps, nods and says "welcome"). Then I say but I'm not recovering, I'm still into it.

I collect watches, but watches are only one of the items I collect. Having spent more than a decade chasing watches, it seemed time for me (as a collector and PuristSPro moderator) to share some of the principles by which I operate. Please understand that these are only MY collection's operating rules and I expect you may disagree with or add to my perspective.

We could say that there are at least 3 types of watch collector:

  Casual (I've got a Hamilton, a Casio G Shock, a Fossil, a Swiss Army watch, and a Seiko diver)

  Mainstream (I've got 5 Omega dive watches, 3 Sinn divers, a couple Bell & Ross, a Submariner and 5-6 other automatic watches; plus a few beaters)

  Serious (I drink with Peter and Kari, talk APs with the Traveling Purist, and I am on the Stern's Christmas Card list).

I'll aim at categories Casual and Mainstream, with hopes of saying something you Serious collectors will appreciate and perhaps expand upon. But first, let me say a bit more about my collecting background. 

I am a mechanically-inclined, do-it-yourselfer. After working in a bicycle shop (fixing hundreds of flat tires, shift cables, bent wheels, etc), I spent my working career in the publishing industry creating information for professional automotive technicians - aka "shop manuals". I am good at working with metal, competent with wood, experienced with electricity and electronics, and better than average with diagnostics. I started collecting watches as a way to wean myself away from collecting and restoring cars (I've bought nearly 100 vehicles).

After I had amassed 20-30 different watches, I stepped up a level and got an IWC GST Perpetual Calendar Moonphase Chronograph (seen here today).



This watch, retailing for $15,000, was a real commitment for me, but sadly, it quickly needed a trip to the shop. Talking to the repairman about working on my watch, I got interested in the inner mysteries of watch movements. I talked my way into my watchmaker's confidence, and he talked me into sitting at an adjoining bench for one day a week over a period of four years (doing hundreds of strap changes, bracelet cleanings and battery replacements). I joined NAWCC, a watch and clock collector's association, and went to regional shows. I have a little bit of knowledge and a small watch "factory" in my basement. Thus I know just enough to be dangerous...

I have purchased about 200 watches in total although I've also pared my collection down to about 60 at the moment. I like Seikos, but I have watches from all countries and with all sorts of movements, cases, bracelets, straps, etc. 

Now on to the subject - this series is about HAVING and ENJOYING a collection, not about BUYING or SELLING the individual components of the collection, and certainly not about telling you WHICH watches to collect. 

Your taste in watches may vary from mine in appearance, quality, functions, nationality of the company, etc. In fact, you (or more likely your spouse and friends) might wonder WHAT IN THE WORLD is interesting about watches to collect? If I may speak just of watch FUNCTIONS, I have come up with this list:

Accuracy & Convenience

Tourbillon

Automatic

Milgauss / Magnetic Shielding




Power reserve




Beauty or Novelty

Carrousel

Parachute

Reversed movement

Ultra Slim

Skeleton dial

Foudroyante

Dead seconds

SmileDay 


 


Larger Units of Time 

Date; Large Date

Calendar

Annual Calendar




Complete Calendar




Perpetual Calendar

Calendar Week

Leap Year

Non-Western Calendars (Chinese, Hebrew)

Zodiac


 


Different times 

Japanese (wadokei) hours


Multiple times 

Equation Of Time

Multiple Time Zones





 


Travel Watch / World Timer




GMT (Greenwich Mean Time) or ...




UTC (Coordinated Universal Time) 


 


24-hour Dial




Astronomical / Lunar Features

Moon phase




Sunrise / Sunset

Equation of Time

Date of Easter

Astrolabe

Planetarium (Credit Don Corson)





Star Charts

Tidal (credit Nicolas)




Diving Features 

Helium valve

Depth gauge


Timing

Chronograph




Flyback Chronograph

Split-second Chronograph





Auditory

Alarm






Minute repeater (of various sorts)

Sonnerie



 


Other Striking variations


Non-Timekeeping Complications 

Altimeter

Barometer



Thermometer 

Compass



 


Braille touch dials



 


Convenience Features, not Complications

Crown Protection (or not)





 



Luminous Material



 



Solar Recharging




etc.


So given all these choices (avoiding pocket watches and clocks), it's natural that we might not have the same interest in the SAME watches, even though we all like WATCHES. That's why PuristS has many forums (or fora).

Notice that I didn't even mention dials, or color, or material of the case, or size of the watch, or straps ....

Here's a general outline of what I propose to cover in approximately 8-10 posts. The details of each post may vary as we go.:


EDUCATION and UNDERSTANDING

Researching a Watch 
     Obvious sources, such as PuristS
     Visiting dealers

     In keeping with PuristS philosophy, no discussion of pricing, bargaining, dealer recommendations or tips on bringing in/out of the country       

Understanding a Watch (or a "Watch Family")
User manuals
Online instructions and information
   Theory and operation of your watch movement
   Technical discussion of construction, lubrication, parts and repair procedures
   Brochures & Marketing materials
   Period Reviews of the watch
   WIS discussions on OEM sites, PuristS and elsewhere

Getting to Know a Watch Company
   Dealers
   Company website
   Events, Trade shows, Factory visits
   Significant people in a watch company (or getting to know your AHCI watchmaker)




STORAGE and TRANSPORTATION
     Ways to carry or ship / transport watches
     Shipping and Receiving
     Keeping a  collection convenient and safe
     Insurance & c laims


WINDING and SETTING Watches
  Manual / Automatic
  Solar
  Winders
  Reference time
  Specialty - moon phase, push pins, winding tools, etc



BOXES and PAPERS
  Boxes
  Papers
  Photo documentation of condition and accessories





BRACELETS, STRAPS, ETC
  Bracelets
  Straps
  Spring Bars
  Buckles and Deployants 


 

Changing the strap and buckle
   Sizing and Fit
   Options - Dealer, Watchmaker, Self

Changing and adjusting the bracelet
    Sizing and Fit
    Options - Dealer, Watchmaker, Self
    Tools and Equipment Required


DOCUMENTATION and PHOTOS of the Collection
Documenting the collection
Record and retain documents and events if you can

Individual Photos (for the collection record, not Friday's wrist-shot)
SOTC (State of the Collection) photos
Organizing the photo library

SAFETY NOTE: Decide whether you wish to use the GPS location feature on phones and cameras. If you share photos, why  broadcast (in the image metadata) where you and your watches reside?


MAINTENANCE and REPAIRS

Cleaning the outside of the watch
     Toothbrush and sink
     Ultrasound machine
     Cleaning the bracelet (this single bracelet coughed up all this dirt!)



      Polishing a crystal
      Reconditioning the strap 
      Brushing or polishing the case and bracelet

Changing a battery
     Dealer, Watchmaker, Self




Minor Repairs
     Dealer, Watchmaker, Self

Cleaning and servicing the watch
     Dealer, Watchmaker, Self

Limbo

"Mechanical total" - what to do with watches not worth fixing but too nice to throw out
Long-term storage to eventually give to heirs, friends, etc

    
Enjoy the reading and may it help you enjoy your collection even more. If I forget something along the way, please remind me, or chip in with your 2 cents.

Note that I am going to try to illustrate my points with my own photos, but I may draw on some others found here on the PuristSPro website. Please forgive me if I show your photo and fail to credit you.

Cheers,

Cazalea

LINK TO POST TWO 


This message has been edited by cazalea on 2015-03-01 17:13:13


More posts: Milgauss

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Comments: view entire thread

 

Definitely looking forward to this!

 
 By: rnaden : March 1st, 2015-17:14
learning from the experts and seasoned collectors like yourself here is what I really love!

Great Post Mike!

 
 By: pingtsai : March 1st, 2015-17:23
I will call it Watch Collecting 101, a Crash Course. This will definitely be useful to any beginner. Thanks for putting this together.

You provoked this Ping, I hope you enjoy it!

 
 By: cazalea : March 1st, 2015-17:25
There are many words and photos to come ... some will be familiar to diehard collectors. Mike aka Cazalea ...  

Go Mike!!!... [nt]

 
 By: pplater : March 1st, 2015-18:40

great article

 
 By: kluand : March 1st, 2015-23:49
Great article, it was a pleasure to read it.

Thank you for this great intro....

 
 By: blomman Mr Blue : March 2nd, 2015-00:37
Looking forward to read upcoming parts! :) Best Blomman

Great stuff -

 
 By: Mally : March 2nd, 2015-00:44
looking forward to the rest of the post(s). Best Mally

Not a small feat

 
 By: Ares501 - Mr Green : March 2nd, 2015-00:57
but you are the man up to it Thank you in advance dear Mike for this PPRO references and Bravo Sincerely Damjan

This kind of post should be highlighted for the long term

 
 By: matthewking : March 2nd, 2015-02:04
Which is kind of what I had in mind with my suggestion for a "Research" forum (link below). This kind of article (series) represents the institutional knowledge of PuristSPro and should be catalogued in a way that is easily accessible for Purists over the... 

Watch Collector Type 4

 
 By: MTF : March 2nd, 2015-02:50
Mike, My nom de plume is MTF and I\'m a physician, formerly in psychotic drugs R&D. My considered diagnosis: You is sick, Man. Da Loony-Bin has nuffin\' on ya! Prognosis: With strong drugs and psychotherapy, you may progress to Collector - Type 4, at best... 

Classes?

 
 By: Strizzy : March 2nd, 2015-11:18
First off, thanks for doing this post. I am really looking forward to it. I am currently a "mainstream" collector that is looking to take a step up the ladder. I read PuristSPro as much as I can given my work schedule, etc (don't you hate it when real lif... 

Education is good but I don't know what classes are offered

 
 By: cazalea : March 2nd, 2015-15:35
I have taken several classes online, and worked with a group to dismantle and reassemble certain Seiko movements. I purchased a series of videotapes (back in the olde days) that go through pocket watches with tips and techniques from the watchmaker, Bob T... 

Thanks Mike

 
 By: Strizzy : March 3rd, 2015-06:45
I will let you know how it goes.

Articles with some advice and some (self-wincing) observation

 
 By: cazalea : March 5th, 2015-07:21
I can't help thinking what a crackpot (nutcase, wild man, enthusiast, Purist?) I become when I get my teeth into a hobby ... sigh. You should see what's become of my office, with tools strewn about, straps and bracelets everywhere, watches in various stat...