A few days ago I was fortunate enough to see the Montblanc Collection Villeret 1858 Grand Tourbillon Heures Mystérieuses.
It is a very impressive watch.
The tourbillon is enormous with a 14.50 mm wide balance, this is essentially a pocket watch escapement. It is suspended by a beautifully speculaire finished tourbillon bridge shaped like two figure "8" which represents a double infinity. The styling of the tourbillon bridge is reminiscent of art nouveau, and because it is large, raised and surrounded by space, the tourbillon is stunning. Note the arrowhead logo on the tourbillon, that is the symbol of the original Minerva firm - thank goodness Montblanc didn't use the snowflake logo instead.
Even the odd shape of the case, slightly ovoid with a bulge at 6 o'clock is appealing. The mystery hour time display is an interesting novelty but it does not blow me away like the tourbillon does.
Magnificent as the watch is, and much as I like its look and feel, it is too large. The case is 47 mm in diameter, too large for most wrists. If Montblanc created a watch with a 40 or 42 mm case diameter but retaining the same elegant and huge tourbillon, that would be perfect. An alternative would be a tonneau-shaped or similar case, so that is does not seem to wide.
That being said, the fit and finish of the watch is superb. Aesthetically it is a success, aside from the large size. This watch, from a company that is part of a larger luxury goods brand, is more impressive and serious horology than watches from companies that profess to be pure high horology players.
Given that this is only the fifth model in the Villeret collection, it is particularly impressive. I have to admit it is easy to criticise the company, after all it is the combination of a mass-market pen brand and a revived watch brand that is most famous for the $1500 Pythagore. But I am very positive on the future development of Montblanc Villeret, I will not be surprised if the company confounds critics with future products.
On a related note, future watches from the Villeret collection will no longer have "Pure Mecanique Horlogerie" on the dial. That is a relief, that phrase ranks up there with "Master of Complications" and "Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified" as one of the most infamous found on a watch dial.
- SJX
This message has been edited by SJX on 2008-11-19 06:40:09
This message has been edited by MTF on 2008-11-23 05:48:04