For BaselWorld 2015, Zenith celebrated its 150th
anniversary (click here: zenith.watchprosite.com
). In
contrast to what many expected, the brand’s birthday present to self was not a
flashy, multi-complicated and awe-inspiring pièce
de résistance, instead they chose something almost humble, a watch with a
base movement, easily overlooked: the Elite 6150 watch equipped with a new
Manufacture movement: the Elite 6150 calibre .
This was a remarkable achievement at a time when most brands did not possess the capabilities of creating their own base movements. Zenith could offer one that was considered one of the outstanding base movements at its time: not only was it the first CAD-designed movement, but also featured a quite long (for its time) power reserve of 55h (achieved with a single barrel).
More than 20 years after its launch, Zenith seems to have discovered what gem it has in its stable. Please let me quote a bit from the press text, worthwhile reading I think:
"With the new Elite calibre, Zenith returns to the roots of the Brand's traditional expertise and craftsmanship: a true watch manufacture capable of designing prestigious complicated movements in addition to reliable and accurate classic movements. To accomplish this, the brand has focused its attention on the famous Elite base calibre, introduced in 1994. While this three-hand movement has always been considered one of the most reliable on the market, until now it has been relegated to remaining in the shadow of its famous parent, the legendary El Primero chronograph. Wrongfully so, since this robust and versatile movement has flawlessly powered ultra-thin watches and diamond-set timepieces from the Zenith collection for twenty years. Determined to perfect its renowned qualities and unleash the nearly unlimited potential of its collections, the Manufacture now offers new touches of prestige and distinction to the Elite calibre." [Press Kit]
The new Cal. 6150 (‘6’ to designate Elite; ‘150’ to indicate the occasion of its presentation, Zenith’s 150th anniversary) is intended to continue the legacy of the old Elite movement: bringing about the essentials for all watches that do not need a chronograph complication:
In short and without further ado, the key technical features:
- lasting long: 100h power reserve; 2 barrels
- contemporary size: 13¼” (diameter: 30 mm)
- really flat: 3.92 mm
- frequency: 28,800 VpH (4 Hz)
- direct central second system (providing increased accuracy and reliability)
- 195 components
- built-in flexibility to host a variety of functions in the future
We would like to highlight two development objectives addressed by Zenith:
(i) the task of doubling its power reserve – previously amounting to 55 hours – by adding a second barrel. The new Elite 6150 calibre now has a generous more than four-day power reserve (100h).
(ii) the task of safeguarding the movement’s original slimness. This challenge has been successfully met, since its 195 assembled parts form an ensemble no more than 3.92 mm thick. Meanwhile, the diameter of the calibre has been considerably enlarged.
So here is the result:
There are a few minor cosmetic changes, just look at the escape wheel ‘outpost’ below. The second hand stop level is nicely presented as well:
Overall, the new Cal. 6150 is decently finished (aesthetically), but well in keeping with the tradition of its ancestor and its intended use as a base movement. No ‘window-dressing’ here, which is honest and thus appreciated.
The first timepiece to house the new Elite calibre, the Elite 6150 model features an entirely redesigned ultra-thin case of which the 42 mm diameter, a first for Zenith, will become a new benchmark size for the brand.
This new ultra-thin steel case redesigned in a pebble shape features slim, flowing lines accentuated by tapered, slightly sloping lugs.
The timeless classicism of this timepiece exuding an inherent sense of with a cambered silver-toned dial punctuated by extremely slender baton-type hands.
We would like to go a bit closer to this dial. It has its secrets hidden deep…
In a striking trompe-l’oeil effect, the long, slender hour-markers hollowed out to form delicate grooves create a distinct sense of depth:
But there is more than meets the eye (at first view): the markers are not just simply carved in…
A glowing polish inside the grooves adds another layer of sparkle and attest to the care applied in creating this watch.
The steel case of the Elite 6150 (water-resistant to a depth of 50 metres) extends the sensual design to the back. A crystal window allows admiring the movement beneath. It is held in place by a polished bezel surrounded a finely rounded, frosted case back.
This nicely pronounces the roundness of the timepiece and gives it depth while preserving the watch’s thinness.
So how does it feel?
There are two aspects of this: First, the entire design lends to a sensuality we have almost missed at Zenith.
The Elite 6150 is so round; so tender that it almost automatically evokes the protective instinct. Like a pebble stone, one cannot help than to caress it:
Second, there is the wrist feeling:
Wearing comfort is excellent, and the watch – despite its apparently humble conception, makes a favourable statement on the wrist. One very important contribution again comes from the case design, which gives the classic theme a very sexy touch:
Even though the lightning conditions at the Zenith booth were quite far from optimal (as always ), we hope the following images could convey our impressions satisfactorily:
Overall, Zenith chose the difficult, more restrained way to celebrate its anniversary. It tells a lot about a the new leadership under Aldo Magada who reversed the former CEO’s decision to abandon in-house movements in entry level watches, and in particular to axe the Elite movement. And then out came the entire opposite: a reborn Elite movement, modernised to be among today’s best.
This is what we would call a bold statement, subtly packed!