Sotirio Bulgari Quantième Annual Calender

May 17, 2009,11:45 AM
 



For the Press Release, please click here.


The  Sotirio Bulgari Quantième Annual Calender comes in 2 variations:

1) limited to 250 pieces with 18-ct pink gold case, black oxidized dial and black alligator strap (SBP42BGLAC).

2) limited to 125 pieces with 18-ct white gold case, argenté dial and brown alligator strap
(SBW42WGLAC) which is shown in this post.

Looking from the outside in, this case is of diameter 42mm and 11.8 mm thick, slightly thicker
than the Date RetroGrade and the 125th Edition.









This is a double-polished case with two different textures to beautify the case.  However to
achieve this aesthetic effect, some engineering work need to be done. 



The challenge is to have the above aesthetic.  Note the caseband (the centre section of the case)
is brush-finished while the lug is highly-polished.

How can this be achieved?


More details on the case-making post follows.



Signed SB crown of diameter 5.5mm, a signature for the Sotirio Bulgari models. 






Moving to the dial now ....



A snapshot of the dial-making process ....starting from the brass blank,insert legs, and then stamp
to get the embossement in the centre area.

Next blank-out the outline of the dial, at the same also the Day and Month Arch-windows and the holes for
the indices, the Day & Month labels and the canon pinion.

After that to be coated with the colour required...




On the left  is the convex double-sided anti-reflective sapphire crystal.

On the left are 4 small pieces of sand-blasted sapphire crystals for the Day & Month Arches. 
Exactly what I am hoping instead some plastic materials.

Next is the smiley-face Date Label, a 225° date retrograde with odd-day numerals, the hour
indices and the gold-plated hands.





A close up for the Month-arch-window with the frosted windows.

The side of the Month-arch was well polished.









The beautiful double-polished caseband is well-complemented by the glossy 45° taper-cut lugs.

These petite lugs is somehow like beacons.  As long as there is a light source, very high
chance the taper-cut  would reflect a beam to capture onlookers' attention.












Somehow this dial is a bit busy, more cluttered than the rest of the models. 




A few pictures of the black dial in pink gold case.


 









The black dial seems to be 'quieter' which I prefer.  However the contrasting frosted Day-Month arch
is a bit distracting.  Perhaps the frost-sapphire should not be used, instead just have a punched out
window. However, it may be challenge to allude there are 2 signature arches there.
 




The movement is  BVL 360 caliber (consists of 360 components),  an automatic  movement 
customized from the Vaucher 4000 by Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier (VMF) for BVLGARI with
an added Annual Calender Module Vaucher 5002.
BVL 360 beats at 28,800 vph has a double-barrel with a power reserve of 55 hours.


The base movement is of diameter 25.60mm and the annual calender module is at 27.00mm .
The total thickness is at 5.68mm.

The decoration and high level of finishing is the same as the 125th Anniversary Edition.


(For the details, please refer to the 125th Anniversary model post)



A view of the movement from the see-through 18K gold caseback.




View with the crown down ...



Arch in arch ... and the various finishings!


An "X"  now  smile


A newly designed buckle with angle-cut too. (Apologies for the fibers )



Please comment about this model and which variation do you prefer?



Kong



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Sotirio Bulgari 2009 Collection (with Live Pics)

 
 By: Kong : May 17th, 2009-11:39
Sotirio Bulgari 2009 Collection To commemorate the 125th Anniversary of BVLGARI this year, four new models are introduced. A clear sign that an expedition to serious watchmaking is gaining speed with the amount of intentional efforts poured in and vertica...

BVL Sotirio 125th Anniversary Edition

 
 By: Kong : May 17th, 2009-11:43
For press material for this model, please click here. Will begin with the special model which commemorates the 125th Anniversary , a tribute to the founder - Mr Sotirio Bulgari. This model consists of yellow gold, pink gold and white gold with silver dial...

Sotirio Bulgari Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel

 
 By: Kong : May 17th, 2009-11:44
Please click here to access the press material The Sotirio Bulgari Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel is the premium piece of the Sotirio Bulgari Series. Only 30 pieces will be made. The size is also slightly bigger than the rest of the models. The ...

Sotirio Bulgari Quantième Annual Calender

 
 By: Kong : May 17th, 2009-11:45
For the Press Release, please click here. The Sotirio Bulgari Quantième Annual Calender comes in 2 variations: 1) limited to 250 pieces with 18-ct pink gold case, black oxidized dial and black alligator strap (SBP42BGLAC). 2) limited to 125 pieces wi...

Sotirio Bulgari Date Rétrograde

 
 By: Kong : May 17th, 2009-11:47
Please click here for the press material The Date Rétrograde is the simple well-crafted 3-hand 'unlimited' model of the Sotirio Bulgari Series with an interesting twist, a rétrograde date. This year Basel, there is another formidable company which has sim...

I like the white on white version

 
 By: aaronm : May 19th, 2009-12:47
But I'm disappointed in the choice of an ETA movement in such an otherwise interesting piece... A

Ha... I would love it to be with their own...

 
 By: Kong : May 19th, 2009-22:24
movement to complete the hoslitic package. From conversation with their executives, they know but did not disclose further. Kong

I wouldn't object to an outside movement

 
 By: aaronm : May 20th, 2009-09:00
I think that would allow them to make it at a much more attractive pricepoint, but they need to choose a better looking outside movement. If they are pushing this as finely designed horology, the can't have such an ugly movement A

Casemaking - BVLGARI Sotirio Series

 
 By: Kong : May 17th, 2009-11:58
Let's start with double-polishing. The question is " What is good about it ?" and " Is it very easy to produce it?" Double-polishing is about creating different texture of the surfaces to create contrast and layering effect in a monochromatic case. (In a ...

I am impressed by the quality of the case.

 
 By: mokling : May 19th, 2009-01:40
Kong, if I invoke our common friend's saying, it is "champion of the champion". To me, the high quality of the case is the fusion of the quality of the case of A. Lange & Sohne and Peter Speake Marin. May be even better. Regards Ling

Initial impression, the case construction is ...

 
 By: Kong : May 20th, 2009-07:04
questionable structurally. After knowing how it is being fabricated, BVLGARI has done the engineering. For now, we see quite a few double surface finishing. Typically brush-finished the top of the lugs and glossed the edge of the edge. Got a feeling soon,...

Wrist Shots with Various Models

 
 By: Kong : May 17th, 2009-12:02
Sotirio Bulgari Date Rétrograde Start with a measurement of the subject's wrist 135mm , 135/25.4=5.3" A lady's wrist of 135mm or 5.3". Man! This is quite big, at 185mm or 7.28" . Diameter 42 mm (and 10.7mm thick) seating well on the lady's wrist... Looks ...

measurement of the 3rd wrist

 
 By: lien : May 18th, 2009-00:01
wht is it? Great reports as always! Thx Kong!

Will ask the Lady :-) It looks good with her ...

 
 By: Kong : May 18th, 2009-13:21
Save The Children Project Silver ring. Get back to you later. Have you seen the pieces in your area? Kong

Not seem these beauties yet~

 
 By: lien : May 18th, 2009-15:46
i doubt they have them these fast but ll take a look if i passing by this week this new sotirio looks very unique and more artistic/feminine, my favor being the pearl dial date retrograde in all metal & the anniversary Best, Ed~ This message has been edit...

The wrist size of the Lady ...

 
 By: Kong : May 18th, 2009-21:28
Hi Ed Got the dimension of the nicer wrist It is at 155mm or 6.10 inches. Do you normally prefer light colour dial? Kong

Thx Kong for the measurement~

 
 By: lien : May 19th, 2009-05:06
so cls...boy i have a women's wrist:p Maybe its summer! & in this particular design which is simple & refreshing, lighter dial lights up the whole piece as i m picturing an evening event mid summer's night Oh Kong, i have posted screen shot the white meta...

Ok,,,,I disclose, you are not the only one!

 
 By: Kong : May 19th, 2009-22:42
Close wrist size/dimension to the Ladies. Just that mine is hairy ( being commented before). So now you know besides showing how the watches look on the ladies' wrists So you have watches group under Spring/Summer and Autumn/Winter? Ok, will check your wh...

haha cool thx!  
 By: lien : May 20th, 2009-04:26
nt

Thanks Kong for this very interesting report.

 
 By: jlux : May 18th, 2009-23:44
These are finally Bulgari watches that I like at lot and I am glad that the Bulgari name on the bezel has disappeared.All models look great with the Retrograde Day being my favorite. The case finishing looks really interesting. The only negative point may...

Gerard, you are not the first person ...

 
 By: Kong : May 19th, 2009-22:17
to have questions about the lugs. My initial thought after seeing the pictures (from press release), the watch seems 'long'. Will it be wearable for my small wrists... and from mechanical point of view, can it withstand stress over a period of time. You w...

A fantastic collection except that I do not like the

 
 By: happyguy1688 : May 19th, 2009-03:08
engraving of XX/ YY on the side of the case or on the dial (ref: Jacquet Droz)

What a fantastic interesting report Kong

 
 By: Geo : May 17th, 2009-23:27
Thanks a lot for posting these pics and text. Great to see that, even while it took them 125 years, the company is finally able to produce really great watches. These models look absolute stunning and I am so pleased that Bvlgari finally got rid of their ...

Thanks Geo. See if you can try one on at your area...

 
 By: Kong : May 18th, 2009-13:27
BVLGARI has gathered inputs from the market regarding the BVLGARI BVLGARI logo bezel. So you could be one of the voice they heard So far from the pictures, which model/s do you like? Kong

Sotirio Bulgari Date Rétrograde

 
 By: Geo : May 19th, 2009-02:15
Hi Kong, the Sotirio Bulgari Date Rétrograde is my favorite. Geo

This 2009 collection is definitely worth a look

 
 By: Emmanuel H : May 18th, 2009-00:31
My favorite is the Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel. I love the design of the dial : legible, modern and classical at the same time. Your pics show a superb movement, at least on the dial side. The finish seems to be excellent. I also appreciate the Quantiè...

Thanks Emmanuel for your observations...

 
 By: Kong : May 18th, 2009-14:05
Agreed with you about the layout & presentation on the Perpetual Calender. Uncluttered and clear (legible). Perhaps size is secondary, the geometry or shape of the wrist is more important to suit this new lugs-design. It is best to try it on, even for tho...

Thank you for the link

 
 By: Emmanuel H : May 19th, 2009-12:27
I much prefer the lugs design of the Diagono Series. It seems to be more "wearable". The French manufacture BRM proposes a solution : adjustable lugs ! So the watch would look great on both ladies. Of course it implies a mechanical / technical look incomp...

I'm impressed!

 
 By: Davo : May 21st, 2009-18:35
The Sotirio Bulgari Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel in particular is simply stunning! Well done and thanks so much for sharing, Kong!

It's nice to see consistency in style

 
 By: Ed. W : March 22nd, 2012-23:36
although I'm not a huge fan of the lugs. Thanks for the report Kong.