Horological Meandering

SJX
[Purist]
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Eyjafjallajökull and the return of Manuel Emch

Manuel Emch created the Jaquet Droz brand as it is today, so it was to much surprise when he departed JD in late 2009 and emerged as CEO of Romain Jerome a few months later. Manuel was recently in Singapore to meet with his retailer Dickson Watch & Jewellery and I managed to catch up with him.

Romain Jerome is much maligned and ridiculed, even by myself. The brand creates watches based on “DNA of Famous Legends”, around three themes of sea, land and air, and the Titanic DNA is of course its most famous creation. Each of these “legends” is in turn associated with larger themes like death, nature and exploration.

Though RJ does make some complicated watches, some of which are quite interesting (more on that below), the brand’s priority is clearly not haute horlogerie, and Manuel is clearly having fun with that.

As Manuel explains it, RJ is about creating watches that are memorable and linked to a “legend”, and sometimes just for fun. One of its latest is the piece unique Eyjafjallajökull-DNA, which even Manuel admits is unpronounceable, which contains ash from the Eyjafjallajökull volcano in its bezel. Eyjafjallajökull is the volcano in Iceland that has been disrupting air traffic in recent months. Manuel notes that with a name like Eyjafjallajökull, the public will start remembering RJ instead of Eyjafjallajökull, while for the Titanic-DNA the Titanic identity overshadowed the brand. But like the Titanic, Eyjafjallajökull carries with it the idea of man being hobbled by nature.

The ash in bezel of the Eyjafjallajökull, the steel from the Titanic, moon dust, and so on – Manuel emphasises RJ watches actually contain actual elements of the “legend” in question. Small quantities, he readily admits, but nonetheless they are present and give the watch a greater level of authenticity than having a logo engraved on the brand.

And while Manuel declares RJ is not a high horology brand, it does and will make watches of a certain quality. I was pleasantly surprised at the watch Manuel himself was wearing, the Titanic DNA Rusted Steel T-oxy III Tourbillon Steampunk A la Grande, which uses a Concepto tourbillon calibre that is actually fairly well finished (below).

He mentioned that it is possible to make components or even whole watches in the China, and they may even be of better quality than some of what is available in Switzerland, but then the watch would lose its identity of being Swiss made. And if one part is made in another country, it may start a slide down a slippery slope.

Manuel will continue the “legend” strategy begun by his predecessor, Yvan Arpa, who has gone on to Artya. He concedes this strategy is controversial, but asserts it is also the brand’s greatest strength – I do not disagree. Manuel observes RJ enjoys double digit growth and can continue to do so doing what it has done before.

RJ buyers are seeking a certain kind of watch, neither traditional nor high horology, but something fun and perhaps created on certain theme. He also explains that the brand’s largest markets are Latin America and the Middle East, which are open to new brands and less focused on traditional watchmaking. Also, in Latin America death is an important cultural theme so there is greater appreciation for watches like Titanic-DNA.

Because RJ is backed by an investor who is not seeking lucrative returns, Manuel is free to create in a way that is impossible at most other companies. And when creators have that kind of liberty, the result objects are anything but colourless; it is not designed by committee. Regardless of whether one appreciates RJ watches, they are certainly distinctive. And even I have to admit, some of them are interesting, and even good, looking.

- SJX

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