Horological Meandering

Mark in Paris
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The Persuaders: De Bethune DB 25 vs. Lange 1815

De Bethune DB25 Silver Dial vs. A. Lange & Söhne 1815

Since I purchased my DB25, not so long ago, I mentioned I wanted to make a face to face between her and my Lange 1815 (233.032), two visually opposite watches but which comparative statement might shade light over several similar aspects (and also a pretext to play with them).

I'll start by talking about aesthetical sides before talking about technique. Those 2 watches are remarkable over several criteria, designers' techniques mastery and, may one like them or not, they surely inspire respect and most of the time great joy from watch amateurs.

But in the mean time they are obviously opposed on many levels: style, history, background and legacy, and the path they are following to reach the same heights, their volume output and last but not least, the price.

Furthermore they meet in many other sectors as they are entry level watches in their brand, they are simple timepieces (3 hands vs. 2 hands + PR), in gold (rose vs. white) with a crocodile-like strap with pine buckle, a remarkable finish, a high technical level mastery and that they may be wore in any situation (except boxing activities).

On the aesthetical hand side

In spite of the fact they both have a round shaped case (I won't talk about style here), both watches are of a very high finish level. This is obvious when admiring the blued hands, the hand-painted indexes showing a splendid curving shape (a more raised effect for the DB), and an excellent movement finish that was designed and produced "in house".

The 1815 shows here nice cotes de Glashütte decorations, her engravings and perfect chamfers as the DB benefits from a more contemporary treatment: sand finish, guilloche dial and some engravings but applied in a more sober and thus more modern style, according to the watch's style.

Despite the classic style that inspired them both, the De Bethune adds a modern touch, especially in this major aesthetical difference with the Lange, the lugs: a lower positioning opened for more lightness with a modern look and a positive effect concerning the wider case size as it decreases its volume appearance.

However, I'll emphasize the fact that the finish level of this DB25, though exceptional, is slightly under the Lange's level when really looking closer to some details on the side of the movement (engraved letters of the movement's outside ring for example, profile of some wheels) or on a HD computer picture. Just adding a precision to give to Herr Caesar what is Caesar's.

Concerning the dial's side and the case, I would say the finish is from the same standards, same quality, which is a very nice compliment to make to De Bethune.

Technically speaking...

Both manufactures are conducted by talented designers that have a precise vision of horology engineering, aspect I appreciate very much. The Swiss brand produces a more important effort and more visible in innovating than the Germans in this field, led by a different brand strategy of course.

A special common feature that deserves to be highlighted is the in-house design of the escapement and especially the balance spring and the balance wheel. This is even more spectacular in the DB.

However there are several little differences here: automatic wind, twin barrel on the one side (6 days PR) and manual and unique barrel on the other (55 hours PR).

The manual wind is very different from both watches: on De Bethune's side, a harder pressure is needed on the crown, in spite of its higher diameter and the fact that we can't feel or hear each notch while turning the crown, whereas on Lange's side we feel a very smooth vibration from the notches while manipulating the crown. From a personal point of view, I would say that Lange's crown is a bit too small and has less deep notches which make the wind a little more difficult when arriving at the end of the winding process.

More over the De Bethune is equipped with many little technical improvements (listed in my previous review: ahci.watchprosite.com whereas the Lange invests on a perfect engineering and manufacturing skill to obtain a reliable and efficient movement.

We all know that a watch efficiency relies on very tiny details. I couldn't perform precision tests easily as the DB hasn't got a second hand.

Concerning materials, De Bethune uses Titanium for many important components as the rotor, the balance wheel and other structural displays (Triple parechute bridge etc.) whereas Lange includes more frequently used materials, yet of high quality, as steel or Maillechort (also called "German silver").

Lange gives priority to watch making authenticity and aesthetics (use of gold, screwed gold chatons, use of Maillechort, multiple engraving methods, hand-engraved balance cock), whereas De Bethune gives priority to efficiency, easier to perform with the modern style of the watch that suits to Titanium for example.

Finally, the 1815 has a stop second display, unlike the DB25. You may say the De Bethune doesn't need one as it doesn't have a second hand but it is a useful display allowing setting the hands anticlockwise without damaging the movement.

Let's finish with some wrist shots, a 1815 showing all its class and beauty with its 40mm and the De Bethune living very well with its 44mm giving full effect of her uniqueness.

This is all for now and I hope you enjoyed this little "encounter". I'll have to sell my 1815 as I purchased the DB25 but I'll come to it one day for sure !

Best regards,

Mark 

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