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SEIKO sets up an independent! A TRUE Japanese culture AHCI. (part 33 of33)

Apr 29, 2012,02:29 AM
 

In the year 2009, I was summoned to visit SEIKO.

After an INCREDIBLE good 7 day trip..first class...I had NO IDEA..that SEIKO had already a new CEO, and it was Shinji Hattori, who, as the new CEO who created this trip for me, and 7 others.

We saw SEIKO, the INSIDE.

Having been to Rolex...I would say that SEIKO is 100% comparable, and possibly 101% better at the department of engineering.

A GOOD example is how Rolex attaches its tridor strap...being the owner of the last few, my tridor bracelet broke, and the watch fell into my pocket!!!

The thing is, I found the tridor bracelet to be attached by laser dried glue on ONLY, I repeat, ONLY the tricolr bit.

The metal pin that goes thru the lugs, does NOT pass thru the tricolor gold part!!!!! meaning that the entire watch is held by glue, at the point of the lug.

I took pictures of course.

Rolex refuses to repair as the watch is more than 4 years old, it was 5 years old!!!

After an official letter of complaint, they fix it in 1 week.

Beat that for customer service.

How many Rolex do I own? Answer...above 2 digits.

SEIKO....I now own 36 SEIKOs, 30 were bought between 2009 to 2012.

I am a BIG fan of SEIKO. Now. Recently.

I always was a SNOB. I didnt know how GOOD SEIKO was.

Example: I scratched a ltd edition $400 usd SEIKO sports....I went to order a new bracelet....SEIKO sent me 2 bracelets..FREE.

Example 2...and this is the story:

I discovered that SEIKO had been SECRETLY, making an effort to create an AHCI challenger, with AHCI thinking, new shapes, new weird stuff, all sorts...spring drive and even mechanicals, no quartz!

All models were limited from 30 to 170 maximum. That's VERY little for a HUGE company that is over 12 times the size of Rolex, if you use the turnover in dollars per annum.

Err...67 times...I was just corrected.

ALL these SEIKO AHCI experimentals, were sold out in Japan, within a month.

Recently, they have created some "more affordable" models and at higher, but I suspect less than 500 per year.

The model is GALANTE.

Entry level is $7,000 usd...higher than GS.

Design..still in learning curve.

Aesthetics...love/hate. Meaning CORRECT.

They are in the phase which we saw the early MBF1 or the early urwerks.

But ONE THING...NO BULLSHIT.

ALL WATCHES ARE HAND ASSEMBLED AND HAND FINISHED.

MY ASSESSMENT, FINISH LEVEL IS OF UP TO PARMIGIANI AND ABOVE JOURNE.

Because of immense secrecy, I may have, many figures wrong...but one figure is correct, all ltd edtions are once a year, and are less than 62, often 30.

ALL are sold out.

Almost ZERO return to secondary market.

Pictures:

This one...I got by calling up SEIKO Japan last week, it was launched on 25th March, only 3 left when I called.

Cost was $7,000 usd.

I have over 20 pics...so i will upload a few first, and if you want more...let me know.

All parts are HAND FINISHED.

CASE BAND IS HAND FINISHED AND POLISHED.

tHE INDEX ARE HAND FINISHED with lines on the top...to create a non reflection.

The dial has a hide and seek to red and to black!!!

This one is ltd edition for 2012.

"Beauty and the beast"..the bracelet is of torns...and the fit and polish is up to GOLD, white gold, level...it is steel!!!

Spring drive.

Katana sword secs hand.

I cannot wait till SEIKO makes more...

I am now going ALL OUT to find the first 5 ltd editions I missed...

Verdict...I love it.

Investment level...HIGH...because it is so affordable!!!

It looked terrible, when I saw it...on pics..but this watch is VERY hard to like...just like Antiqua and Opus V, VERY UGLY were the initial responses.

But for what SEIKO is...it is HUMBLE.

It still treats customers as customers.

IT IS STILL A COMPANY THAT SERVES, BECAUSE YOU PAID.

 It is NOT a company that YOU SERVE, altho YOU PAY.

 

 





Afetr wearing for 24 hours...I want to buy another...it is like the PANERAI EFFECT.





MULTI dimensional looks are too much, but I LOVE it!!!

It is wearing a chunk of steel....and it is proud to say..it is a SEIKO!!!!

No snob appeal!!!

No snob anti appeal!!!









Look at hand finished index!!!!

The paralell work...and the zero tolrances.









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SEIKO sets up an independent! A TRUE Japanese culture AHCI. (part 33 of33)

 
 By: bernard cheong : April 29th, 2012-02:29
In the year 2009, I was summoned to visit SEIKO. After an INCREDIBLE good 7 day trip..first class...I had NO IDEA..that SEIKO had already a new CEO, and it was Shinji Hattori, who, as the new CEO who created this trip for me, and 7 others. We saw SEIKO, t...

Thank You for Sharing this watch with us...

 
 By: SALMANPK : April 29th, 2012-04:14
The more I look at it, the more I'm beginning to like it, my initial reaction was not very positive but as I look at it more, I'm discovering more and more, would love to see your other Seiko's please and if possible to talk more about the AHCI style Seik...

Reminds me of a Dragon's claw

 
 By: Nicko16 : April 29th, 2012-05:06
I don't know why but it just does

Hi..the bracelets are handmade in Japan, and NOT a part of steelux which makes most

 
 By: bernard cheong : April 29th, 2012-08:13
of what we see. And once we/you have touched the luxury of a hand finished japanese urushi pen or a piece of jewelry/sword...the dragon's claw is meaningful. I HIGHLY recomend, but with a sense of ADVENTURE, to get a piece, but you will have to wait till ...

Hello friend. My initial reaction was "YIKES".

 
 By: bernard cheong : April 29th, 2012-07:49
But the people behind this "commando unit", which was probably set up to learn the best from Opus, MF&F and Goldpfiel, and YET to keep it within the roof, so to speak...is well worth watching! After now, the 2nd day, I have had more people with positive t...

I can't agree that Galantes is the Opus series of Seikos!!!

 
 By: Hororgasm : April 30th, 2012-15:01
Until they start producing cases besides round ones, and start producing complications both functional and user interface. I would like to see it the next time we meet, I need to feel, taste, bite into it!! Best, Horo

SALMANQ8 I forgot..the caseband n crown isjust a work of love

 
 By: bernard cheong : April 29th, 2012-09:04
I wanted to use the word ART, but the fit and the individual polish... Is extreme. The choice of alloy, which I was allowed to examine, at Grand Seiko, and which being experienced with eye and orthopod prosthesis, is of superlative medical grade...which i...

The Finishing of the dial is very interesting and how it changes color..

 
 By: SALMANPK : April 29th, 2012-14:14
in different light, fantastic, what is the material used at the center of the crown, reminds me of the gadgets from the old sci-fi shows in the 60s and 70s S

never had any experience with seiko

 
 By: xsw : April 29th, 2012-05:28
no doubt the quality has improved but the legacy just isn't there to justify a premium. idk haven't seen any seikos irl tho

I used to think about heritage. However, Urwerk, MBF, Kari, and...

 
 By: bernard cheong : April 29th, 2012-08:23
everyone needs to start. SEIKO has 150 years of uninterupted heritage, matched only by the ones of Rolex, Omega and Patek. RM would not have had a chance too ....and he was from of all places...SEIKO. I had not been back to Japan since the 90s, and after ...

Seiko has great history and record in the Observatory Chronometer Competition in 60s

 
 By: KIH : April 29th, 2012-21:38
It was already at pinnacle of mechanical watch in late 60s (Google "Observatory Chronometer" "Neuchatel"). Sure, in the quartz era, Seiko got lazy on mechanical department and had to be resuscitated in late 80s to early 90s to "come back" to the scene. So...

Bernard, Seiko is or was an under appreciated brand, here...

 
 By: Ronald Held : April 29th, 2012-06:04
can you post pictures of other models that do not have the date in that position. BTW, what is the weight of your watch and how will it fit on a small wrist?

Ronald...I will surely post pictures. I am leaving for London

 
 By: bernard cheong : April 29th, 2012-08:04
soon, and will be back by next week. But before I go...look carefully at this hi re pic: Can you see the hand applied lines that run along the index?...

Ronald..2 pictures

 
 By: bernard cheong : April 29th, 2012-09:12
Even as I support DEVON and more SWISS makers than ones from Japan or the USA, I come from a trading outpost, I think of a scene from Starwars, the first one....

The Design and Aesthetic reminds me of...

 
 By: SALMANPK : April 29th, 2012-15:14
The 40s and 50s, Hot Roding, Tattoo Culture and Custom Bikes...very Von Dutch, this watch would look great on DonD's wrist S Pics Source: Google Images...

Bernard have safe trips and respond when you have the time...

 
 By: Ronald Held : April 29th, 2012-15:11
Perhaps we need a PuristS factories trip to Japan? I wonder if anyone in the US owns any of these watches?

You are absolutely right, Bernard...

 
 By: jporos : April 29th, 2012-07:55
Seiko is a brand to be reckoned with at all levels and with the technological chops; Kinetic Drive, Magic Lever winding, Spron mainspring, Spring Drive movement, that most manufactures cannot match. After having just seen a Grand Seiko in the metal, I can...

I hope so..because this seems to offer a new start for the world

 
 By: bernard cheong : April 29th, 2012-08:36
prices of the artistic creations have soared..and this is good, but only for the ones who have means. I am, being a doctor, very concerned that this hobby, which is HEALTHY for the mind and for making friends be MORE accessable to ALL...and yet remain HIG...

Not my coup of tea

 
 By: nitediver : May 1st, 2012-04:45
Thanks for sharing your passion with us, Bernard. The finish looks good - I have no doubt that it is as good as you describe. The design however....not my taste. But we can't argue over taste anyway. Have a safe trip to Europe then. Best, Stefan

Thanks for sharing Bernard. any shots of the back?

 
 By: patrickmaniac : April 29th, 2012-07:59
cheers PAt

I need better ones...but here are 2

 
 By: bernard cheong : April 29th, 2012-08:46
I made a BIG mistake thinking I could use under by 3 stops and PS to balance!!! ARRRGHHH. I would rate movt decor as high to a drop to above average...this is the ONLY weakness. I think SEIKO made a mistake to think that AHCI collectors go mainly for look...

Here..I took these about a 10 mins ago.

 
 By: bernard cheong : April 29th, 2012-18:01
The attention to COMFORT..is I can tell you..EXTREME. I have over 10 Patek and 1 Lange and 1 AP bracelet to compare...made between 2000 to 2009. There is NO fight. Forget Rolex...not a fight.Not in the same league. For comfort...but it must be my wrist. I...

Thanks for the quick turnard Bernard. Just a quick glance and the movement deco is not

 
 By: patrickmaniac : April 29th, 2012-18:12
what most folks would be expecting from AHCI. There would be room for improvement like you said. But the Katana hands and the "moon sabre" seconds hands are quite nicely done. I was just browsing the Galante website and they have quite funky designs not n...

My favorite piece..

 
 By: bernard cheong : April 29th, 2012-10:35
All sold out. I was 2 years late!!! The white rose pattern is great....

Seiko Galante: sorry but I didn't understand it.

 
 By: foversta : April 29th, 2012-13:03
Well Bernard, I'm one of the few guys here in Europe who had the opportunity to wear a Galante. And even if I have a lot of respect for Seiko, for the innovation, the broad range of high quality watches available... I consider that the Galante is one of t...

I tend to agree with you..

 
 By: hans_jorgen_1968 : April 29th, 2012-13:45
.. I would prefer a GS any day. Best Hans

These designs are not for European Tastes or Aesthetics..

 
 By: SALMANPK : April 29th, 2012-15:22
so it is understandable you won't find it appealing or understand it. "C'Est La Vie" as they Say S

You are so right :-)

 
 By: hans_jorgen_1968 : April 29th, 2012-21:21
.. And the interest is also about people have different taste and opinions Best Hans

Chuckles..I wore that watch last year in Paris. and...

 
 By: bernard cheong : April 29th, 2012-17:46
my wife screamed that it was for a woman. But I like it. I guess because (1) it makes people ask what it is. (2) I am asian (3) SEIKO only sells this in Paris, besides Japan. They understand some of the french. But it is not for the west. NOT yet. But if ...

A very interesting post and watch!

 
 By: Gary G : April 30th, 2012-05:46
Thanks for calling our attention to this piece, Bernard -- fascinating indeed. Great photos, too! The design of the case is not to my personal taste (in particular the columns at the corners) but many of the features, including the indices and hands, are ...

Apologies for causing so much disscussion.

 
 By: bernard cheong : April 30th, 2012-17:54
Here is a shot I took a few mins ago. The SEIKO has the weird case elements. New movement. New dial technique. New, maybe unacceptable looks. And, by today's standards..round but yet square, aesthetic. Could be off. Could be in. I will get 2 more, than a ...

It says a lot

 
 By: Gary G : April 30th, 2012-17:59
...that you display the Seiko with these treasures! I will look forward to your additional impressions once you have lived with the watch (and perhaps others!) for a little while. Best, Gary G

Thanks Gary..it is a strange watch reallly.

 
 By: bernard cheong : April 30th, 2012-18:09
Also...it CANNOT look good at all on a leather strap..the bracelet is part of the whole thingy. WEIRD.

Bernard, I like this post.

 
 By: ling5hk : April 30th, 2012-19:31
The watch has a lot of details on the bracelet, dial, hands and especially the case. Thanks for posting this stunning Seiko - it is a beast. Regards Ling

rare...not too expensive, and very well made..and lets non collectors in

 
 By: bernard cheong : April 30th, 2012-23:27
I am even having a hard time getting these, which are also are..these have a standar bezel....

Love/Hate

 
 By: james_qp : May 2nd, 2012-02:07
Couldn't agree more - Seiko have so much potential and I'm content to not love the watches shown in your post. It is really gratifying to see Seiko walk on the wild side even if just for a few steps!

Galante for the shy Purist

 
 By: cazalea : May 2nd, 2012-11:31
Hello Bernard, I'm delighted and not surprised that you have latched on to that incredible piece of wrist art. It's much more than a watch. I've had a brief Galante dalliance, but my watch was much less flashy than the one you've landed. Nevertheless, it ...

A couple more views

 
 By: cazalea : May 4th, 2012-08:01
...

well

 
 By: Delamere : May 4th, 2012-05:28
The quality, materials and workmanship may be top notch; but this thing is an absolute monstrosity. Looks like a kid's toy watch, simply unwearable.

Yes...quite, I would say. Looking like..

 
 By: bernard cheong : May 8th, 2012-10:32
I totally agree. In fact, it is my naturally, born, adventurous persona...in some ways. I don't dare jump bungee for example...but we digress. The Galante is SO damned well made..from a purely surgical pov...when I examine a knife or a blade...I look for ...

Could not agree more with Bernard's points

 
 By: winvade : May 10th, 2012-08:41
...

This model is a VERY powerful example!!!!! white ROSE

 
 By: bernard cheong : May 12th, 2012-04:31
I found a version of this, the sbla061 and I have already bought it to analyse. The rose and the index and the glass/crystal is of exceptional order. Now..these level of TOP finish is VERY hard to define, and requires a Nikon Field BINOCULAR microscope wh...