Flash Report: FPJ CHRONOMETRE OPTIMUM unveiled!

Oct 05, 2012,09:39 AM
 

I was fortunately able to attend the launch party at FPJ Boutique in Tokyo, thanks to a good friend of mine who has invitation.  As the World Premier of Optimum, there were so many people at the event.  Note that FPJ is the brand which is kinda cultish here in Japan.  And he seems to like Japan, so here he first unveiled Optimum. 

Since this report requires speed, my report may not be sufficient, but I hope I can convey you the gist of the new offering or innovation of FPJ.


FPJ Boutique in Aoyama (unlike other brands which are mostly located in Ginza area) - this is the first time for me to visit (!)




Opening remark by M. F.P. Journe himself.





Special guest - M. Jean Alesi, former F1 Driver.  His partner is former Japanese actress, but not only that, he is apparently a good friend of Mr. Journe.  He also came for F1 in Suzuka this coming weekend (not sure whether he will do the demo run on the historical machine).




Crowd are listening to M. Journe's opening speech.




Many Jean Alesi related display.




Nice clock....









Now, this is it!  Platinum.




Rose Gold




Explaining the fans what the secret of the new escapement.




Cakes?




Sushi, all you can eat smile




According to M. Journe, in this new escapement, there are two escape wheels, but it has Swiss Lever ankle.  The ankle (or anchor) has 4 hands (usually, two) - two to start, two to stop.  Similar to detent escapement, but completely new idea.  Somewhat similar to Natural Escapement I recently saw in Laurent Ferrier's Micro-Rotor, but different.  According to him, those "old" escapement ideas are not for today's wrist watches.  They were for pocket watches.  So, this new escapement is "optimum" for today's wrist watches and all the good thing about Swiss Lever escapement and natural escapement were taken in.  All bad things about them are all left out.

"Optimum" means more about efficiency and stability of the movement.  It doesn't mean totally accurate all the time however you wear it.  It promises to be stable in certain position (of course it is as accurate as other chronometers in other positions as well) and the stability stays very long time.  No need for oil in the escapement module, by the way.





This is one of the present to the guest (watch cleaning cloth), but the escapement is clearly printed here.




Here is the video which was in the gift package for all the attendees (link posted by permission).




Press papers (sorry for the smallish scan).  There are "some" explanation about the escapement.









We were allowed to handle the actual one.




There is another Dead Second subdial on the back of the watch directly from the Remontoir.  Runs counter-clockwise.








Present to M. Alesi




Thank you speech by M. Alesi












Optimum cake, which was eaten later - so did I smile






Guests' wrist shots.




















Oh, well, he had FPJ on his left wrist and this was on his right wrist....




That's it!  I hope as the premier tour goes around, someone who understands more about the escapement mechanism hopefully explain better than I did.

Thanks!

Ken

Special thanks to:
FPJ Boutique Tokyo
Ms. Kitano - PR Manager
and
M. F.P. Journe

 



  This message has been edited by KIH on 2012-10-06 16:55:05 This message has been edited by MTF on 2012-10-08 04:39:41


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Comments: view entire thread

 

Thanks Ken for the wonderful report.

 
 By: schen : October 5th, 2012-11:30
This is absolutely wonderful. Finally, the official release of Chronometre Optimum. Well worth the long wait. Bravo!

Thank you!

 
 By: KIH : October 5th, 2012-17:29
Then, it was well worth staying up so late :-) Ken

Ken, one more ...

 
 By: small-luxury-world : October 5th, 2012-11:46
great report. You catched the ambience, the people, the watches and you provided some serious content. What more can we ask for? Did you like the watch on your wrist? Is it wearable for "smaller" wrists? Is it affordable for those with not that deep pocke... 

Well....

 
 By: KIH : October 5th, 2012-17:27
The size is 40mm and 42mm only. Not 38 and 40 as the past ones. 40mm maybe okay... Well, the price point - didn't get the exact number, but PT is around JPY7-8mm area, which is more or less USD100K? Yes, we would need a deep pocket. And lastly, among the ... 

Interesting....

 
 By: aaronm : October 5th, 2012-11:57
Thanks for the report! From the animation, it looks like that escapement is some sort of lever/detent hybrid. It has the direct impulse of the detent, but uses two wheels maybe to get rid of the spring and the possibility of running away if it gets hit at... 

Your understanding matches mine..

 
 By: KIH : October 5th, 2012-17:30
.. but doesn't necessarily mean that we are both right :-) Ken

thanks so much

 
 By: donizetti : October 5th, 2012-13:28
boy have I been waiting for this and after a string of pieces that did not excite me this really captures my imagination. Much appreciated! Best Andreas

I was told I had to come... :-)

 
 By: KIH : October 5th, 2012-17:31
So thank you very much for kind words. Ken

With this Optimum appellation, do we have to understand that the Souverain

 
 By: amanico : October 5th, 2012-14:07
Was not optimum? ;) Best, Nicolas

Touché ..........

 
 By: moc : October 5th, 2012-14:41
Dam you are a riot!:) Mo

Behave, Nicolas! ;-)

 
 By: CaliforniaJed : October 5th, 2012-17:15

Umn...

 
 By: KIH : October 5th, 2012-17:28
... you can understand however you want..... :-) Ken

Why do things simply ...

 
 By: AndrewD : October 5th, 2012-18:28
... when you can do them complicatedly?! The Chronometer Souveraine (CS) was designed to be a simple time only chronometer. The twin barrels provided excellent torque, the movement architecture was pretty to look at, particularly in rose gold, and all the... 

Much appreciated Ken

 
 By: moc : October 5th, 2012-14:40
As I mentioned in a post to bluenotte that was deleted, I appreciate the effort and the technical prowess of mr Journe, But the watch falls very short on expectation from the design point of view. The layout is quite ugly(especially the power reserve) and... 

Thanks Mo!

 
 By: KIH : October 5th, 2012-17:32
Well, each of his own. I hear you. I just wish it were a bit smaller, personally... Ken

"a post ... that was deleted"

 
 By: small-luxury-world : October 6th, 2012-01:36
No my friend, it was just moved to the right forum. You can still find it in the HoMe Forum :-) Cheers, Oliver

my bad..

 
 By: moc : October 6th, 2012-01:46
just saw it a minute ago...:) I thought it violated an embargo or something..... Cheers Mo

An embargo? Nooo.... :)))

 
 By: amanico : October 6th, 2012-01:47

what do i know????

 
 By: moc : October 6th, 2012-01:49
With all this novelties........:)You ll never know

The brands should re work their embargo definirion.

 
 By: amanico : October 6th, 2012-02:00
After all, if they publically show a watch, then why putting it under embargo? This is total non sense, and Journe is not the only one, here, to have to re think that. They can't complain if someone is posting something he saw in an event, IF it is a publ... 

I was referring to...

 
 By: moc : October 6th, 2012-02:22
Blunotte thread below.....It was in AHCI before and couldn t see it nomore....hence I thought.... But I agree with you,how many times embargoes were violated?Almost all the time... Mo

Mo, I did temporarily remove Stephen's images ...

 
 By: AndrewD : October 6th, 2012-06:22
... for about 10 hours until the Tokyo launch was over. And then reinstated the post on the correct (HoMe) Forum. Here was my previous request on the issue: But I recognize there were images available on the Internet for several weeks, and mixed informat... 

and well you did Andrew....

 
 By: moc : October 6th, 2012-07:46
No worries , I fully support the Purists policy about embargo. Let the others run mad to be the first to publish, keep the Purists etiquette and class alive! Mo

Verbage

 
 By: AndrewD : October 7th, 2012-16:07
Hi Mo, The text on Journe dials is polarising, I know. It is interesting because mostly I prefer 'clean' dials, but in the case of Journe watches it works for me. The aesthetic is consistent, the writing just 'frames' the dial and on the wrist I don't not... 

Thanks a lot for the report Ken!

 
 By: foversta : October 5th, 2012-14:57
This is really the best Journe for several years. It has something hypnotizing on the dial. Mouvement is wonderful too with the unusual anti-clockwise second hand. I hope to see it in the metal in this final version soon. Thanks a lot for the comprehensiv... 

It will come to you town...

 
 By: KIH : October 5th, 2012-17:33
... and then, please take the better pics and better explanation? I thought I understood, but not sure about all aspect... Thanks, Fx!

Wonderful Ken

 
 By: samwan : October 7th, 2012-07:01
I will have a chance to see it in the flesh in two days' time in Hong Kong, but am still trying to understand the new mechanism. With regard to lubrication, would it be fair to compare the watch to the silicium escapement made by Jaeger Lecoultre? What do... 

According to M. Journe...

 
 By: KIH : October 7th, 2012-08:47
... no lubrication necessary.... He would not like to have this compared with anything, I guess. Not sure if silicium is used in this escapement anchor, but it is worth asking him directly. He will be happy to answer such questions. He was, last Friday. P... 

Very exciting!

 
 By: Hororgasm : October 5th, 2012-15:15
Thanks for the coverage Best, Horo

No problem!

 
 By: KIH : October 5th, 2012-17:34
I just feel that I should have left earlier and started writing this.... :-) Ken

Many thanks Ken...

 
 By: pplater : October 5th, 2012-16:00
Finally: an 'in the metal' view. Your efforts to be there, and to bring us a speedy report, are very much appreciated. As for the watch? Movement: tick. "Complications": tick. Size: tick. Aesthetic: tick (even with the alphabet soup on the dial - if you'r... 

Hey, thanks.

 
 By: KIH : October 5th, 2012-17:35
I was not the one who was invited, but the invitation was for two and a good watch friend of mine asked me whether I want to go..... and I was told I must :-) Ken

Impressive event, still trying to understand the watch...

 
 By: patrick_y : October 5th, 2012-16:18
Impressive event Ken! The Tokyo boutique is supposedly the first boutique outside of Switzerland in the world, from what I hear. It could even be the first boutique worldwide altogether. But indeed, Journe is - as you put it - a cult item in Japan. I don'... 

The escapement...

 
 By: KIH : October 5th, 2012-17:38
.. is really hard to understand. The theory, I understand and it is always "will it work as the theory says?" That is what happened to M. Breguet on his invention - Natural Escapement. I would be happier if I saw some actual data of the performance to be ... 

Doomo ne!

 
 By: BluNotte : October 5th, 2012-16:52
Dear Ken, It was great to have seen you at the event! And thanks for this flash report! Best Stephen

Hey, mon ami!

 
 By: KIH : October 5th, 2012-17:39
It was great seeing you there. It's been a while. Do promise to give me a buzz next time, okay? Ken

Mochiron !

 
 By: BluNotte : October 5th, 2012-21:26
I do wish i had more time here, but sigh it's always busy busy busy :( You take care now, along with everybody! Tschuss Stephen

Fantastic report, Ken, and an intriguing watch.

 
 By: CaliforniaJed : October 5th, 2012-17:16
I can't wait to see it! Best, CaliforniaJed

Yes, intriguing!

 
 By: KIH : October 5th, 2012-17:40
Enjoy when you see it and him! Ken

Our fortune that you attended Ken!

 
 By: sidneyc : October 5th, 2012-17:55
Otherwise we wouldn't see such a great thread! Ken, thank you for the excellent coverage! You took us right there! It's a really interesting watch, and I do agree it is one of Mr Journe's most interesting watch of recent times... as for the price point, w... 

Thanks, Sydney!

 
 By: KIH : October 5th, 2012-17:58
I am grateful and glad that I went :-) Ken

Thanks for the report KIH.

 
 By: SJX : October 5th, 2012-21:30
Would love to know the long term reliability of this new escapement once the watch is delivered. - SJX

Another fantastic post...

 
 By: elliot55 : October 6th, 2012-00:34
... felt like I was there. Thanks, Ken. Great information and great photos. What an incredible movement... I was starting to wonder why the second hand on the back of the piece goes counter-clockwise... and then it occurred to me - it's driven by the seco... 

Great report of a nice event.

 
 By: VMM : October 6th, 2012-01:18
Glad to see him/them back, love some of his/their creations. The Tourbillon Souverain is still on the top of my dream watches, LOVE it. Thanks for sharing, Vte :)

Great report [nt]

 
 By: Horology75 : October 6th, 2012-12:58

I alwasy feel lucky....

 
 By: KIH : October 6th, 2012-17:17
I feel always lucky as some brands start its tour from Tokyo :-)

My pleasure!

 
 By: KIH : October 6th, 2012-20:09
Thanks for reading! Ken

wonderful

 
 By: swjoseph : October 7th, 2012-07:02
wonderful creation from FPJ, excellent animated illustration and most of all, great report from you, Ken!

Thanks for the compliment!

 
 By: KIH : October 7th, 2012-08:40
I do what I can do :-) Ken

Excellent report...

 
 By: FanFrancisco : October 7th, 2012-08:12
... Thanks for the excellent report, was a good read, your report makes us like attending there too. Stefan

Thanks!

 
 By: KIH : October 7th, 2012-08:40
I am glad you feel that way! Ken

My sincere thanks, Ken ...

 
 By: AndrewD : October 7th, 2012-16:17
... for this wonderful and perfectly balanced coverage. Your photos really carried the ambience of the Tokyo Boutique launch, the guests and the Chronometer Optimum. You will of course not be surprised that I am very excited about a new F.P.Journe and I w... 

Sometimes, these report require speed!

 
 By: KIH : October 7th, 2012-18:01
... again, should have left earlier and started writing :-) You are welcome! Ken

Great report on a piece I like a lot!

 
 By: Gary G : October 7th, 2012-17:03
Ken -- Thanks for this marvelous report! I particularly envy the last fellow on the list, with his special Resonance on one wrist and Mille RN tourb on the other. Very tasty indeed! And, I like the new watch quite a bit. As much as FPJ has missed the mark... 

Thanks Gary!

 
 By: KIH : October 7th, 2012-18:03
... I, too, feel this is most appealing among his recent offerings. Personally, I would like to see how it really works in the long run in real world, but an interesting offering. Ken

I expect we won't have to wait too long ...

 
 By: AndrewD : October 7th, 2012-18:12
... because unlike many companies that show watches at Basel or SIHH and don't release them for sale until the following year, Journe usually start to deliver within a couple of months of the launches to customers. At least that has been the history of pr... 

We shall wait and see soon :-)

 
 By: KIH : October 7th, 2012-18:26
Thank you! There must be many FPJ fans who will buy instantly everywhere! Ken

That does it!

 
 By: Ophiuchus : October 8th, 2012-22:31
After all these years, I finally, finally find a watch I want to wear, all the time, unequivacally. This is the most beautiful wristwatch I have ever seen, and even as a watchmaker, that's saying something. I want this bad. REAL bad. I would gladly sell m... 

I live to hear this ...

 
 By: AndrewD : October 9th, 2012-18:36
... sort of passion. It is wonderful when any watch motivates you like this. And in my experience F.P.Journe watches can really get under your skin. Ownership is the only remedy. The watches have the right mix of style, engineering, design and presence. H... 

Wow, excellent job, we have waited too long for the Optimum

 
 By: mphilippe : October 12th, 2012-15:58
But thanks to your photo spread and commentary, we now know we did not waste our time. I love the escapement. Jealous of the Sushi and Champagne too. Look forward to the NYC Boutique roll-out