Horological Meandering

KIH
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Re-discovering (other) German Brands - Muhle Glashutte and Stowa

Re-discovering (other) German Brands  - Muhle Glashutte and Stowa

Thanks to the retail franchise/ import agent (Tic Tac/ Neuve-A) for those two brands, I had an opportunity to see their latest offerings as well as meeting CEO/ Owner of both brands at the event held recently.


The shop in the station building at JR Ebisu Station.




Profile of both - Jorg Schauer, Owner and Designer for "Stowa" which he succeeded from the founding family, as well as his own brand "Schauer", and Thilo Muhle, CEO of Muhle Glashutte who is actually the fifth generation of the Muhles since the brand's inception in 1860s.




1. Muhle Glashutte

Mr. Thilo Muhle - the fifth generation of the Muhle family (the brand is still owned by the family).
A bit of history: The Muhle's started making the measurement instrument FOR the watches made in Glashutte in 1869.  In 20th century, they started serving the auto industry with Speedometer and Tachometer.  The first motorcycle of BMW had Muhle's Tachometer.  Even after the WWII, they were allowed to continue what they had been doing and it was easy to restart as a private company again.  In 1994, they entered the watch making.





On his wrist.... Terra 1 Chronograph.  Muhle's chronograph is really "bang for the buck", IMHO.

He says, "I want people to have at least one watch made in Glashutte, which doesn't have to be Muhle, but any Glashutte watch to appreciate the tradition and history of the village with attention to details motto...."




This year's top novelty - Seebataillon GMT
44mm/ 12.7mm
Countdown inner bezel

See the "Glashutte/SA" logo? - there are certain requirements (e.g. more than half of the value of the movement MUST be added in Glashutte) to have this "seal", like Lange.




Titanium case




ETA2893-2 Muhle version, 42 hours power reserve.
















Another notable novelty this year - M29 Classic
Design motif from measuring instrument which is Muhle DNA




42.4mm/ 11.3mm




SW200-1 (Sellita) Muhle version with "woodpecker" regulator
38 hours Power Reserve








Existing line-ups -
Terra 1 Chronometer




Terra Sport II



Terra Naut III Trail




Germanika V




29er Big




Germanika I




Terra Naut I Trail




Manual winding movement - see the Glashutte DNA here: 3/4 plate!




All the base movements are outsourced, but they are modified by Muhle Glashutte at various levels.








My favorite... to be available after September: Teutonia II








Interesting vertical hairline....








At 41mm, maybe tad big for my wrist, but I could forgive myself to wear this...








They should apply for patent of this!




... and back to the existing line -

S.A.R. Rescue Timer




S.A.R. Flieger CHronograph




Marinus





2. Stowa

Stowa started making watches in 1927 near the Schwarzwald and soon moved to Pforzheim, the southwestern part of Germany.  It is an interesting contrast between Eastern Glashutte watches and Western Pforlheim watches.  Stowa was the main supplier to the German Air Force at WWI and WWII, but unfortunately after the "quartz shock", the brand had to go through tough times....





...and this gentleman, Mr. Jorg Schauer who had already owned his own brand "Schauer" bought the brand from the founding family in 1996 and restarted the brand in 2004.  Those two brands are distinctively segregated.  While "Schauer" makes exclusively hand-made watches, "Stowa" aims to be more diversified and more broadly marketed brand.

Now 70% of revenue comes from exporting to more than 70 countries, and 15% come to Japan (!).  According to Mr. Schauer, Japanese market understands "attention to details" well and gives back sophisticated feedback which he appreciates very much.





He is excellent about finishing - all hand made beauty.












Old Stowa advertisement - Mr. Schauer will keep making dress watches like this, but at the same time, more sport watches as well.









This is from "Stowa Museum Collection" - Original Flieger.  Stowa was one of a few brands which supplied pilot watches to German Air Force, together with IWC and LACO.



  Antea 365
36.5mm
ETA automatic, 40 hours Power Reserve

Stowa uses many ETA movements (with lots of modification), and Stowa can buy from Sellita and such, but also tries to stock the parts as much as possible in case ETA movement becomes hard to acquire in the future (for now, supply is okay).  Considering the scale of operation, in-house movement is not really the option now.




Marine Original Roman (18K YG case)
41mm/ 12mm
Unitas 6498-1 Hand Wind, 46 hours Power Reserve




Unitas




And these are.....












Marine Original Solid Silver Dial for Japan - wow!





Existing Flieger Chrono with automatic Valjoux 7753
41mm/ 14.7mm
40 hours Power Reserve





And this is Flieger Chrono Handwinding with Valjoux 7753 modified.
Same design, same size, same power reserve.





Display back of handwind 7753




Flieger with Logo and Date
40mm/ 10.2mm
ETA2824-2 automatic, 40 hours Power Reserve




Flieger without Logo
Same size, same movement.




And this is THE top of this year's novelty: Flieger T01 TESTAF
TESTAF stands for "Technischer Standard Fliegeruhren", i.e. this model complies with the new technical standard for the pilot watches.
With white hands on black dial, much darker logo and TESTAF seal, legibility is the top priority of this watch.

Titanium Case
45mm/ 12.9mm
ETA 2824-2 automatic
40 hours Power Reserve




Made with the same TESTAF standard, but for racing: 24H Racing Countdown
Countdown bezel - surely eyed Le Mans 24H race.




Seatime Prodiver with various colors




Flieger with Logo and Date, special dial.





Mr. Schauer's prototype 24H Racing Countdown (yellow/ green version).
The feel of bezel "clicking" is so comfortable and "just".  Here is what his "attention to details" spirit is poured in, too.




Titanium case













Both brands made me re-realize what German watchmakers are capable of.  I would like to keep both eyes to these brands.

Special thanks to:
Mr. Muhle, Mr. Schauer
Mr. Ishii (Tic Tac/ Neuve-A)
and, Tic Tac Ebisu staff

Thank you!

Best,
Ken

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