small-luxury-world
[Patek]
8768
Made in Germany – Fine watchmaking from Germany as an alternative for products from ...
... Switzerland, because of the strong (expensive) Swiss Franc?!
It is just a
thought that came to my mind after some discussions we had recently. Is this
possible at all? Aren´t most of the German watch companies/watchmakers related
or dependent from Switzerland – more or less?
Two of the well-known player´s belong to Richemont in the case of A. Lange & Söhne and to the Swatch Group in the case of Glashütte Original. Also there is Montblanc which belongs to Richemont as well and is based in Hamburg (Germany), but produces their watches in Switzerland.
Quite a few, to say the least, parts come (still!?) from Switzerland. No matter which German brand we are talking about, quite often they get parts (cases, dials, movements …) from Switzerland. Not to speak about machines like e.g. CNC machines (today a must even for smaller watch companies - more or less) which are coming quite often from Switzerland as well.
Nonetheless there are some interesting activities/projects going on, in Germany and I will try to introduce a few of them - briefly. There is (best to my knowledge) one very important producer of CNC machines and he delivers to at least one brand of each of the big watch groups, some very well-known independent companies and yes most of them are based in Switzerland. The name of the company is Lehmann and later we will see they can do even more than machines.
Let´s have a look on a few examples from Germany …
This message has been edited by small-luxury-world on 2015-02-24 13:38:39
Made in Germany – Fine watchmaking from Germany as an alternative for products from ...
... Switzerland, because of the strong (expensive) Swiss Franc?! It is just a thought that came to my mind after some discussions we had recently. Is this possible at all? Aren´t most of the German watch companies/watchmakers related or dependent from Swi...
Nomos, which is proud to be able to offer true manufacture products …
in every single sense of the word and this even, includes their own Swing System since last year. A little bird told me they also use Lehmann machines from Germany. (Nomos; Swing System) A few watch examples from Nomos and most if not all will have the ne...
Agree with your last statement Oliver
I always had a soft spot for Nomos and especially the World timer. I didn't know about the origin of their parts supply.
"the origin of their parts supply" There have been ...
quite a few changes in the right direction. I would say, they did their howework very well and I am looking forward to the next steps.
I'm looking at NOMOS with great excitement.
Love the Bauhaus design. Good looking watch!
"Love the Bauhaus design" Indeed, they started like this ...
but today it is even more. Bauhaus "2.0" design and in-house abilities on top.
UWD (Uhren Werke Dresden)
In a former post I and Magnus already talked about UWD and it is impressive what they are already able to do today and what they have in mind for the future. The last time we have visited them, we saw prototypes and finishing like this … Just one (movemen...
Sinn - a company which I probably don´t have to introduce here anymore.
Still let me share some pictures of the EZM 13, the latest iteration of the famous EZM watches. Sinn was always well-known for good value for money. Is this still true? It´s up to you to judge. ...
Kudoke - a small and still young company which is now based in Dresden (Saxony).
To introduce the brand and what makes them special I would like to quote one sentence from their homepage: “ When your KUDOKE is finished you will find out what the word UNIQUENESS means. ” Marketing “bla bla” only? No. A few pictures taken by me: Skeleto...
Leinfelder – a jeweler from Munich …
which offers also watches for quite some time. Now they are/will be (not sure about the latest developments) the first ones with a movement from UWD and a case by Leinfelder made in Munich. So far I haven´t seen a final product for the market, but this mi...
Lehmann – yes again and this time with some interesting watches.
Those show some unique design details and technical features. From what I heard, Vianney Halter helped them to develop their own movement(s). On the other side they (CNC Lehmann) helped well-known Swiss brands to develop some of their latest (highly chall...
Not only Vianney
The protected crown, that can be recessed into the case, was developed with Andreas Strehler.
amerix, thanks for the additional information.
By the way, what do you think about the outcome? Do you like it? Cheers, Oliver
Yes, I think so!
After a few minutes, an hour or two - or even a day - it could easily become a part of my everyday collection - the ones that are actually worn and are designed to be worn. The tolerances are breathtaking! Let's hope that the timekeeping surpasses the dis...
Crown, rotor and the lugs...
all full of fascinating details which indicate that here a new player entered the stage bringing in fresh thinking - one who did not use the red carpet, but took a postern... All of the features are even more intriguing if one talks more about the backgro...
Yes, I think especially for the more "industrialized" part ...
of the watch industry (no, not only low/middle price segment) there are interesting times ahead. Changes are needed, for several reasons! Cheers, Oliver
One of the Carl F Bucherer movement developers was German
Is that what you mean for the rotor? I'm not even going to discuss the crown "innovation"..... Regards, MTF
When it comes to developers, supporters ...
... for (big) brands and their projects, there is more going on as we get told most of the time. It this new? No. One person was starting together with the brand to work on a project and another person helped to make it happen - for several reasons. One p...
Last but not least I would like to talk about Lang & Heyne from Dresden, …
which is kind of outstanding (at least) for Germany. Marco Lang is an AHCI member since 2005. Marco Lang and his small team produce less than 50 watches per year. There are only a very few parts needed from suppliers. Those parts are finished with an almo...
Interesting read, Oliver!
Thank you for this report. What made you change your mind on this brand? Deeper/clearer understanding of the philosophy of the brand? Better watches? Watches more in your taste...? Best Blomman
"What made you change your mind on this brand?" This is a good question ...
and maybe there is only one short answer: I was an idiot :-) By the way, it was the same with Greubel Forsey in the past. More seriously, I was distracted by L&H´s "baroque" design and didn´t expect the outstanding attention to details and features. F...
Thank you for the explanation, Oliver!
I think we all do this mistake from time to time - if we don't like at first glance we move on... I know several brands I didn't pay attention to until second, third, fifth time I looked... And some I know I would love, but time is not enough for me to ta...
Thank you Oliver, very instructive article.....
and nice pictures too. The caliber V from Lang & Heyne is exquisite. Cheers Francois
Francois, thanks for your reply and I would (at least) also add ...
the caliber VI ... plus some of their projects I heard about :-) Cheers, Oliver
Made in Germany – Fine watchmaking from Germany: Can we say ...
... almost each price range and taste could be covered – more or less? I guess not, but that is only me and my point of view here. My intention was not to list each German brand in the watch business and their current activities, but still I wanted to sho...
Thank you for the German report, Oliver!
Great to read/see that other countries than Swiss/Japan are working hard to make fine watches! :) Best Blomman
My pleasure, blomman. What do you think about them ...
as they are different to your already impressive collection? Cordially, Oliver
Some of them is ...
Really not my type of watch, some looks very interesting. My favorite of the once you show here is this one: But even if I don't like all of them from a design perspective, technically very impressed of what I see! Best Blomman ...
Thanks a lot for the German overview
That's why I keep being interested in indies as there is always something new & interesting to discover. I think my favorite would be the King Johan or Frederich II from L&H. Cheers, Mark
My pleasure, Mark. When it comes "simple" watches from L&H ...
I (also) like a lot the King Johann and the Friedrich III (instead of II), especiall because of the dials and the hands. If we talk about the movement, I prefer the Friedrich III because of the caliber VI . Nothing is wring with caliber I , but I prefer t...
Excellent post my friend
Indeed reach offer from Germany for watch aficionados and you didn't even mention non of many AHCI members from your country Sincerely Damjan
Damjan, thanks for your reply and yes of course ...
there are much more brands and offerings. Not all get my attention and for now I have chosen only those with current pictures on my hard disk ... :-) Cordially, Oliver
It takes a lot to make my jaw drop
But you did it. I had wondered about L&H for some time now, didn't know the details behind them. All I knew is whenever I saw their finish- my jaw dropped. Their work reminds of the finish of 19th C. pocketwatches, in a teutonic style, with a bit of L...
Ophiuchus, thanks a lot for your kind reply!
L&H and the current projects at UWD are more than interesting, especially for connoisseurs (even those without unlimited funds). Cordially, Oliver
Dear Oliver....
In this age of instagram, and other 'watch as a lifestyle' type of posts all over the Internet and social media, posts like this is why we all keep coming back here.... Superb work in bringing all of the details to us. I have mixed feelings regarding incr...
ik2000, thanks for your kind reply! I agree we (those with serious interest in the topic)
... need more than Instragram & Co. is able to deliver. A few of us here started to contribute at Instagram as well, but it won´t replace a place like PuristSPro. My heart is here, for sure! I hope we can get a few more of those "youngsters" to be mor...
As one of German Watch fans....
... this is a superb comprehensive report, my friend! Deep and long history, to say the least, makes today's German watches. Stubbornly hand-finishing and persistence to the accuracy/ reliability deserve applaud, while Japanese watches are not so bad, eit...
I know this was not supposed to be exhaustive
But came across another Dresden based German watch maker recently that also does the lion's share of work in house, namely Rolf Lang. Currently around 85% of all parts are manufactured in house, with efforts to increase this further under way. Fairly unde...
Rolf Lang, is a brilliant watchmaker
He initially schooled his son Marco, from L&H, and was responsible for early on training down in Glashutte at ALS. More recently he was looking after the collection of mathematic and physics museum in Dresden, and was also involved in the design and c...
The watchmaking appears to be wonderful...
my only concern is about the design, which I find rather uninspiring, and lacking an aesthetic connection to the movement on the back (the same, btw, I think holds true to Moritz Grossmann watches). I would have loved a more original outer conception, ful...
I have to agree with Magnus ...
my expectations (on one or several levels) are not met - unique selling points and or appropriate design. Oliver
Having seen them last year in Basel
Magnus, I would say i'd have to agree on the dial design, it isn't the most inspiring, but as you say it can be the Saxony way. Cheers, Tim
Technical brilliance is not everything ...
at least not in my book. When I saw their booth in Basel last year, I was keen on getting more information - until I came closer :-( Something is missing, from my point of view. Cheers, Oliver
Fair point...
Which goes to my point about those Independent Watchmakers, who do a great job of both aspects of a mechanical watch. Most compelling it is when the insides are lovely as well the exterior. Not easy to do, and typically done by very different types of peo...
The approach is not bad, but the final product ...
is not meat nor fish. But with a few changes I could imagine an interesting product :-) Thanks for adding! Oliver
Ken, thanks for your kind reply and we will have ...
interesting discussions ahead in Basel :-) Looking forward to it! Oliver
This is a great report, Oliver.
I love Lange; and Nomos. Of course I was aware of several other brands. But you have unearthed quite a few I had no idea existed; and they truly appear to be alternatives to the Swiss companies. Thanks!
Padj, thanks for your reply. There are even more ...
brands/activities, but not all of them meet my expectations for several reasons ;-) Oliver
Most of the best German watches are in one town
Oliver, Really, one could get the "best" 5 or 6 German brands just staying in Glashütte and not having to do that winding drive outside. Not even to Dresden. The range available in the "glass & silver" town covers all price points from Moritz Grossman...
MTF, thanks for joining the discussion and I agree ...
there is something special going on in Glashütte/i.Sa. Still I don´t like each brand or all the projects. It is a matter of taste and approach that doesn´t work for me . BUT fine watchmaking in Germany is not only limited to Glashütte and not even to Saxo...
I'm getting lazy with age
In the past, I was full of energy seeking to collect one watch from each "good" brand. It was impossible but a naive tyro could only hope. Now, I like to make one trip to one town and "do watchmaking" ;) I have to admit that Glashütte is really 'dead' aft...
"getting lazy" is a bad habbit ...
and you should work on it :-) But don´t blame me if you gett addicted afterwards ;-) R&D guys should walk around and I am always happy to see something like this, because it shows serious interest/passion for the topic. To me it is positive and nothin...
Eye opener, interesting and perfect timing after I got my GO...
PanoInverse. I feel GO has very good quality/price ratio and is getting my attention going forward...I cannot afford A Lange & Sohne for now but I like Nomos simple design and the L&H movement. It is good to know so many alternatives. I'm always b...
I have a big love for Germans............
Here is how it looks 6 months ago. Then I have add this one. And one more will come soon. ...
