Horological Meandering

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Baselworld 2012: Bell&Ross Report

The 2012 edition of Baselworld was very active for Bell & Ross, so active that the fuses had just been blown when I visited the booth. Hopefully, we could find a place with lights in order to be able to shoot pics of this new collection.

We can split it into 4 parts:

- Flight instruments
- Military
- Complications
- Slight evolutions of existing models.

Let's start with the flight instruments.

These watches follow the same footprints than the Radar did before: they are inspired by flight instruments to propose unusual time displays. I will not tell you that these watches are "innovative" because, at the end of the day, their movements remain classic. But they take advantage of a clever design to create a special atmosphere giving the feeling to have a true instrument on the wrist.

The 3 new watches in this line share in common the use of the BR01 case (46mm) made of SS with black PVD finish and of the ETA calibers (ETA 2892 for the Horizon and the Turn Coordinator and ETA 2896 for the Altimeter). Each of them is sold in LE of 999 pieces.

First novelty is the BR01 Horizon. Its reference instrument is the artificial horizon. It is a very sober and pure watch, I would say a very graphic one, a true designer achievement. But frankly speaking, I was not seduced by it. I found it too simple for a 46mm watch and moreover, not so legible due to the confusion brought by the hand counterweight and the strong presence of the bridge for raised dial.












I was more convinced by the BR01 Altimeter  and its big date display. I found the dial more balanced and more suitable to the large size of the BR01.














Last one is the BR01 Turn Coordinator. This watch is of course a new way to re-use the Radar formula. But this time, only the upper side of the dial is visible. It surprises a lot at the beginning but the design works pretty well. If you are not shocked by the lower side of the dial which is totally motionless, this watch may seduce you by its worthy interpretation of the Turn Coordinator Instrument.













A lot of novelties were unveiled in the Military line, I propose to browse them.

First of all, a new material is joining the party: Argentium. Argentium is a silver alloy, almost pure (960/1000) which preserves the stability of the material.

Argentium was used in two contextes:

- first for an evolution of the WW1 watch which becomes with its Argentium case smaller (41mm) and more elegant thanks to the use of silver or ruthenium dials. I have the feeling that these watches are still under creation process as the dials didn't have the same lay-out: as you can see it, small second subdial is much larger with the ruthenium dial watch than with the other one. So expect some changes here, that's my feeling.


















- second for a striking pocket watch. Yes, I didn't make a mistake: Bell&Ross unveiled this year a striking pocket watch. It is not a surprise for me because I knew that Carlos Rosillo was fascinated by these old pocket watches. The use of Argentium has a positive impact on the striking performance of the watch. i would not say that the sound is purer but at least, it is louder. The PW1 5 minutes Repeater (and not Minutes repeater as I often read) houses an Unitas based movement and the 5 minutes Repeater module coming from Dubois-Depraz. This module is well-known because I already saw and heard it in Nivrel or Edox watches.













I find that this  watch is a nice evolution of the PW1 and moreover, its silver dial makes it more elegant. Striking mechanism is launched thanks to the trigger located left side of the case. Case diameter remains at 49mm.



The other main watch which was presented in the Military line was this Monopusher chronograph available in two versions: ivory dial with blued hands or black dial with luminous hands. Chronograph module comes from Dubois-Depraz. My fav version is the ivory one, the other one being not very surprising.  Case diameter is 45mm.


















But the star of the show was without any doubt the WW2 Bomber Regulator. This huge (49mm!) watch is inspired by a bomber navigator as we can guess it with the case shape and the dial lay-out. Automatic movement comes (again) from Dubois-Depraz. Bell & Ross designers worked a lot on the details of the WW2 like the grey PVD finish of the case, the sand colored coating of the indexes and figures, the calfskin strap...

The movement was assembled upside-down what led to two positive points. First one is the crown location, on the left side of the watch. Due to the case diameter, a position on the right side would have become too bothering for the comfort on the wrist. Second one is the small seconds subdial located on the upper side of the dial... like a true regulator requires it. This watch, due to its design, to its inspiration, to its radical side is maybe the best Bell&Ross since a long time. Comfort is surprisingly good due to the flexibility of the lugs. You have to consider that the wearability of this watch is similar to a 44/45mm one if I wish to sum up in a few words.













We visit now the opposite side of the collection (even if we stay in the military atmosphere)with the WW1 Heures Sautantes in PG or Platinum.
If you've known Bell&Ross for a long time, you may recognize the complications which were developped by Vincent Calabrese  several years ago. Even if the watches find again their original "leaf hands" (but with a thinner and longer shape), cases were enlarged and redesigned (42mm). Dial lay-outs remain the same but the enlarged cases give more room for the data display.

Platinum version (LE of 25 watches) uses two windows (hours and power reserve) while PG version (LE of 50 watches) gets a power reserve display by hand. Platinum version has a more contemporary style while the PG one is more classic.

I really find these watches very nice but I still have in my mind the doubts about the realibility of the jumping hours mechanism. Let's hope that it was improved because it was not the best asset of the initial watches.

























We finish the report with the evolution brought to some existing models. The points which have to be underlined are the introduction of a metal bracelet for the Vintage collection further to requests coming from clients.














You will also notice the new black bezel with numerals which gives a more sportive touch to the Vintage chronograph.










And the Vintage collection also got its own Phantom with all-black 3 hands and chronograph watches.




My report is over now and as you could see it, the 2012 collection was containing a lot of ideas and was pretty large. Of course, Bell&Ross keeps following tracks they perfectly know with these military and instrumental atmospheres. Recipes work well so there is no reason to change them. The horological contents remain quite basic even if some good surprises can be found. But on the overall basis, I have the feeling that Bell&Ross is a brand on the move, with a constant will to be close to its customers and to bring evolutions in the collections.

I would like to thank a lot the Bell&Ross team for the warm welcome.

Fr.Xavier

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