indignantdenial
349
I'll levy the same criticisms I did when it came out...
Mar 27, 2024,00:18 AM
I have to admit, I was never terribly swayed by Fleming (the brand). I don’t really care about the people behind it (they're probably okay), but I do care about the venture (because of its possible impact).
From everything I’ve read is an établisseur type of deal. It seems, however, that it’s not really that remarkable. Laurent Ferrier gets things right as an établisseur, especially when it comes to finish and design language. An LF is unmistakable. I honestly can’t say this is on the level of MG or KV, or even LF. For me, the watch is okay. It’s not worth 50 grand though, no way. I’d put it at 35, maybe. Is it cruel to say this is like a micro brand but done expensively? It just feels soulless; lots of individually nice elements that when smushed together yield a thing. What that thing is, I don’t know, but there isn't a feeling that this has heart in it. It has basically what appear to be these peoples' favourite finishing or core elements like aventurine dials, guillochage, bevelling, and high-end suppliers for case, movement, etc. but just because you have all the high-quality stuff doesn't mean you have a watch on par with the best independents out there. MG does things way more impressively and cohesively when they aren't doing crazy stuff, for example, because there's a sort of unity and identity to MG.
These criticisms have also been levied by others. Frankly, I was indeed expecting the effort from Fleming to be one of an établisseur but at a reasonable price—a lower price since it’s clear there’s no such thing as DNA or design language yet; I realize I was right, except about the cost.
I can’t really tell what actual public perception is: there’s a lot of self-congratulation going on from the brand and its orbiters, but there appears to be a circle of people more critical of/unmoved by the watch, and I don’t know which dominates. Either way, I'm not a fan of what they've produced, and they don't really have my respect.
To answer your prompt, I am all-consumed by watches, but I also don't think that starting a brand is a wise idea. You need a lot of things to go right, and just being a hobbyist who's seen a lot does not qualify you to produce an excellent product.