Learning Watch Photography

Nov 30, 2007,08:54 AM
 

Unsatisfied with the watch photos I had been taking, I recently undertook a campaign to improve my watch photography skills.  Many thanks to Sherm, Micah, Alex, Riley, Kessler and Sandler, all of whom directly or indirectly assisted my endeavor (directly by sharing their techniques with me, and indirectly by posting advice on one or more threads).  I shelled out a few bucks for a new SLR camera to replace my point and shoot, so that I could adjust aperture and shutter speed.  I also picked up a tripod (previously, I was holding the camera in my hands).  I also picked up some florescent lights (previously, I had been using high wattage clear bulbs – I didn't know better).  My friend gave me his Photoflex shooting tent (previously, I had been using a bankers box lined with white paper).  With these tools in hand, I started playing around. 

 

Pursuant to my photographer friend's advice, I used the camera setting that permits me to adjust aperture with the camera automatically determining the corresponding shutter speed, and I cranked up the aperture to the highest possible setting, so as to maximize my depth of field.  I know there are a myriad of other adjustments and fine tuning available, but at my beginner level, I have stuck to this approach thus far while I learn.  I placed three florescent lights outside the shooting tent, on the right, left and on top – the light is diffused by the shooting tent.  I also placed a Porta Trace light box housing a florescent bulb in front of the shooting tent – the Porta Trace has an opaque cover that diffuses the light (thank you Sandler for posting a photo of your set-up, including the Porta Trace).  I placed white paper in front of the camera with a cut-out for the lens to protrude through, and I turned off the image stabilization on my lens.  I set the timer for a two second delay on every shot.  Finally, I purchased a few acrylic watch holders used by jewelry stores to display watches (previously, I had been laying the watches sideways or flat).

With the maximum aperture setting, my photos immediately began showing depth that far exceeded anything I had done before, thus revealing a panoply of detail that had previously eluded me.  Thereafter, I discovered that lighting is everything, and the position of the watch in relationship to the lighting makes all the difference.  Thus far, I have only photographed three of my watches using this new set-up, and the learning curve has been tremendous.  I have improved with each watch that I shoot.

 

I selected these three watches to start with because my prior photos of these watches were particularly deficient for one reason or another:

 

Here are my prior two best photos of my IWC Portuguese Perpetual Calendar (one with the OEM strap, and one with a Camille Fournet strap):


 

Here are a couple of photos of this same watch using my new set-up:

 



 



 

I am awestruck at the sharpness, depth and detail of the new photos, as compared to the prior photos.  Look at the pattern of the moon phase subdial – it is not discernable on the prior photos, but vivid and crisp on the new photos.

 

Here is my prior best photo of my Ulysse Nardin Sonata.

 



 

Notice that the hands and screws are a rather bland and dull color.

 

Here are a couple of photos of this same watch using my new set-up:

 



 



 

Suddenly, the true color of the hands and screws – a fantastic blue – is revealed.

 

Here is my prior best photo of my Roger Dubuis Easy Diver.

 



 

I took this photo using my new camera, but before I got the other components.  I tried my best to capture the carbon fiber dial, but it is rather dull looking.  Moreover, the bottom halves of the hands are cut off and the white gold bezel is indistinguishable from the stainless steel case.

 

Here are a couple of photos of this same watch using my new set-up:

 



 



 

The carbon fiber dial is now vivid and vibrant, and the bottom halves of the hands are visible.  Moreover, the white gold bezel is clearly distinguishable from the stainless steal case.  Furthermore, the photos reveal writing on the vertical surface between the crystal and the dial (I am not sure what this surface is called) – I never knew this writing existed.

 

I still have a ton to learn, but I am really enjoying the process.  Thanks again to everyone who has helped me along the way.

 

Regards,

 

Craig

 


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Great post, Craig

 
 By: SteveH : November 30th, 2007-09:06

I have been working hard at it but still with a point and shoot

 
 By: Bill : November 30th, 2007-10:03
I guess at some point an SLR will come into play. But I don't think a bad photographer with a good camera will come ahead. A more complicated camera actually makes shots sometimes harder. So all the point and shoot warrior don't an SLR will solve anything... 

Nice pic!

 
 By: Odehorn : November 30th, 2007-13:14
I dabbled with photography but have never taken macro pictures. As I have promised to share a few pictures of my own collections, I am interested to find out more about taking macro pictures. First and foremost, which macro lens did you use? What magnific... 

I did not use a macro lens

 
 By: Craig LA : November 30th, 2007-13:20

Great shots Craig!

 
 By: JDV : November 30th, 2007-17:05

Great post Craig

 
 By: carl : December 3rd, 2007-11:26