foversta[PuristSPro Moderator]
20814
Bell & Ross: an overview of the 2014 collection
Aug 22, 2014,15:24 PM
Several weeks ago, I had the chance to discover the 2014 collection of Bell&Ross at the brand headquarter located in Paris.
It is always a pleasure to meet its staff in this superb mansion since everything is perfectly designed and organized to welcome the guests and the visitors... and of course to work inside! I once said to Carlos Rosillo that I was very surprised by the stability of the staff at Bell&Ross: the turnover of employees is low and I think that the fact to meet year after year the same people contributes to the appreciation I have for the brand.
When you enter the mansion, you directly dive into the specific atmosphere Bell&Ross has built during many years. There is no doubt here: a large part of the collection is dedicated to military watches and more precisely to pilot watches.
If I took a picture of the dashboard, there is a good reason... the different instruments inspired a full line of BR01 watches: the BR01 Flight Instruments.
I propose you to browse the new collection now.
Let's start with my favorite of the year, the WW1 Guynemer. This LE of 500 watches, housed in a 45mm case has a lot of charm thanks to its pure dial.
Guynemer was a fighter ace during the First World War. The symbol of his squadron was the stork.
This stork is here displayed in red: you have to understand that the squadron changed several times its colour and the red corresponds to a specific period. Anyway... it works great here on the dial.
The figures are also nicely designed and executed while the big second hand animates the dial:
The solid caseback is a good idea since the movement (ETA2892) is small compared to the case:
The watch on the wrist:
Despite its size, I was seduced by the charm of this watch and its overall coherence. One of the best Bell&Ross of the last years. And as you can imagine it, it plays on the same pitch than some watches of the Pilot line from Zenith.
Another important novelty for Bell&Ross this year belongs to the Vintage BR collection. The BR 126 Carbon Air Force Insignia is an automatic chronograph with a 41mm diameter which bears on its dial the insignia of the Allied Forces during the Second World War:
The pictured watch features a calfskin strap but I think that the final version will come with a black rubber strap with stripes of the same colours than the insignia:
The watch is powered by an ETA 2894 movement (ETA2892 + module):
The watch on the wrist. I like the concept of the insignia which is totally highlighted by the black context of the watch:
The BR 123 GMT 24h Automatic is, in a sense, a watch which was missing in the Bell&Ross collection. The second timezone display is maybe one of the most requested complications and in a pilot context, it is quite logical to find it.
This watch is a bit bigger with a 42mm case:
I like the glass shape and the bezel. The legibility of the second timezone is fine thanks to the large orange hand. The applied figures are also finished with care. Sadly, the date window seems to be a bit lost on the dial:
I am convinced by a solid caseback would have been a better solution for this piece. But we all know that for commercial reasons, it is better to have a see-through caseback even if the finishings of the movement don't have anything special:
But the main interest of this watch comes when it is put on the wrist. I found it well made with a good legibility.
The BR 126 Sport Heritage GMT & Flyback is a LE of 500 pieces. This 43mm watch combines the two complications. This time, the second timezone is displayed thanks to a specific subdial:
Do you remember the BR 126 Flyback? Without any doubt, this novelty has a different style with a more elegant dial due to its applied indexes and figures and its colours in harmony with the hands. Do you also notice the glass shape?
The see-through caseback:
And the watch on the wrist:
Let's enter the BR03 collection now.
The BR 03 Carbon Orange is what I call a watch with character!
Hopefully, since it is a BR 03, the case diameter stays within reasonable limits (42mm). I appreciate the combo created y the orange canvas, the upper pusher and the chronograph hands:
But more significantly, with the Carbon, the BR03 gets a new material after steel and ceramic. Please also note that the case doesn't have the same texture than the BR01 Carbon Fiber one.
On the wrist:
The watch from the BR03 collection can also be more refined! Have a look at this BR03-90 steel&rose gold featuring a large date display and a power reserve indicator (so using a Soprod 9090 module):
The two tones case is successful and despite its shape and the powerful design, this BR03-90 manages to embody a certain elegant style...
I'm not a fan of the Soprod 9090 module. I always found its large date too small. But in this white on white context, it works better. I consider this watch as the best use of this module.
This is the BR03-92 Commando which combines black case with grey rubber strap and dial. This watch is perfect for the people who don't want to go further to reach the end of the logic with the also new BR03-92 Phantom. It is a matter of taste obviously but I think that once you enter this style of watch, you have to go to the Phantom version.
BR03 case oblige, the diameter is 42mm:
A new LE collection is knocking at the door with the B-Rocket watches. This is a very ambitious aesthetic project from Bell&Ross. The idea behind these watches is to find again the atmosphere of the concept-bike designed by Shaw Harley Davidson.
This collection is made of two watches, each one being limited to 500 pieces.
The first one is the BR01-94 B-Rocket, a chronograph with a 46mm case diameter:
I really find the aesthetic approach interesting because, in my point of view, the asymmetric design brings a kind of energy:
The dial is so well designed that it managed to make us forget the position of the date window which one more time, gives the proof that the movement is too small for the case:
Good news: the caseback is solid what is coherent with the style and better for our eyes.
Frankly speaking, I like a lot this watch which offers something different from Bell&Ross while keeping a similar frame: the BR01 case.
The other watch of the B-Rocket line is the BR03-90 B-Rocket.
As you can see it, this piece also uses the Soprod 9090 module but this time with an open dial approach:
Its strong asset is its smaller case which makes it easier to be worn (42mm):
I was less convinced by this one when compared to the Chronograph. I found the large date a bit confusing and the power reserve hand doesn't use the full circle obviously.
But when considered as a whole, the design works better and we recognize the family air of this B-Rocket watch:
Both watches:
Each model uses a superb padded black calfskin strap. They contribute a lot to the successful design. And good news: they are comfortable strap.
You can feel the size difference on this picture:
I would like to finish the report with an UFO, the WW2 Military Tourbillon available in Titanium or Titanium&rose gold cases (20 pieces each).
Inspired by some cockpits, the watch clearly embodies a steampunk atmosphere:
And you can open the hinged front cover:
I would have preferred to be able to totally remove this front cover and to have the choice to keep it or not. It would have made available two watches in one...
Anyway, once closed, the front cover makes the watch very unsual if not strange. The case diameter is 46mm so you have to consider that you are wearing a timepiece with a strong presence! This watch, due to its design and size is not for the small boys!
2014 is a very busy year for Bell&Ross and as you could see it,the new collection is large, encompassing several collections of the catalogue.
But the year is not over and we can expect a nice surprise during the last quarter. Sadly, I can't tell you more!
I would like to thank the Bell&Ross staff for the warm welcome.
Fr.Xavier
This message has been edited by foversta on 2014-08-22 15:25:07