Horological Meandering

Ornatus-Mundi
[Zenith]
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Dial Making: The Art of Guillochage - and Chemical Wizardry!

Note: This part of the article is just a short introduction to the art of dial making practiced at DeWitt. I promise to post an in-depth article on this fascinating craftsmanship some time later!

We watch connoisseurs tend to reduce watchmaking to movement manufacturing, finishing and assembling. What we forget is that it is most often the outer appearance of a watch that catches our fancy. It is not without reasons that a dial is also referred to as a watch’s ‘face’. Yet, we take the production of dial, hands and cases for granted, such often overlook some interesting aspects.

DeWitt is one of those rare companies that can produce any type of dial entirely in-house, from the naked dial plate to the finished dial! Where the focus lies is elegantly displayed in the company’s museum:




Yes, ancient machines from the 18th and 19th century, and some are put to good use at DeWitt. I am speaking of Rose engines, traditionally used to create masterful Guillochage dials! These here are the private property of Mr de Witt.




Currently, DeWitt employs three of those magical tools for its dial production. Each is a specialised machine for either vertical or horizontal guillochage.







The mechanical algorithm that determines the pattern:







The range of patterns is simply mind-blowing!




To achieve such difere and elaborate patterns it is practically necessary that the entire workflow is separated in a sequence of guillochage steps. Each of them is meticulously controlled for perfect alignment between the different tools (view from right to left!).




Carefully, the guillochage is finalised. Notice the DeWitt 'W', a unique and exclusive pattern developed here:




Once the engraving work is finished the dial plate is ready for the next step, the aesthetical finishing, comprising of colour treatments, printings and the application of indices. Again, all of this is done on the spot! DeWitt operationalised a complete laboratory for chemical treatment of dials, which is capable of creating nearly any kind of desired surface colour. There is a chemical wizard who does the experimental work to achieve new hues and shades himself.




As an example, I’d like to show you this image to give you an idea on the different colours that are possible:




Also dial appliqués, numerals and indices are treated in this workshop:




Before dials are printed, indices and other appliqués are mounted on top of the treated dial plate …







… and finally the indications and other information printed. DeWitt uses the classical tampon printing technique where a die plate is used as a template. Paint is applied, a tampon pressed on it which then transfers the print precisely to the dial.













Final control:



Do I have to mention that DeWitt produces all die plates and even the tampons in-house? But I leave this for now to a future separate article!

With the dial ready, we can now pass to the next post to consider movement finishing and watch assemblage!

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