Horological Meandering

Grand Feu enamel is a true high-heat enamel.  There are other "cold enamel" processes that are not true traditional high-heat enameling, some brands call this "lacquer dials" (like Patek Philippe accurately calls its 5119 model lacquer-dialed, but its 5116 dials enamel dials).  

The best enamel dials can probably be achieved by any manufacturer.  However, few seldom do achieve their full potential in enamel dials.  

Also, some manufactures may have varying degrees of quality on their lacquer dial based on the model in question.  

Let's explore some things to look for in a grand-feu enamel dial...  

1.  The dial substrate is usually brass, gold, or silver.  I would prefer that the substrate to be not steel since steel expands/contracts more than 

2.  The enamel powder is then sprayed on as evenly as possible.  If it's applied not evenly enough, it may crack on some of the thicker areas.  

3.  When the dial is fired in the oven, the enamel powder is effectively fused (I like to think "carmelized" since it reminds me of food) to the substrate.  

4.  It is important that the timing and temperature of the firing process is reasonably even and consistent.  Or else one portion of the dial may be "cooked" more than another portion of the dial.  This may affect appearance and durability.  

5.  Ripples in the finished product is not an undesirable thing necessarily.  Some manufactures intentionally allow a small amount of ripples (this can only be seen at an angle in the light) so the dial is more easily identified as an enamel dial.  

6.  Dial then goes through hole punching (sometimes hole is already punched) and printing after the firing.  

My favorite manufactures that make great enamel dials are:

1.  Montblanc Villeret - arguably The Best enamel dials in the business.  Great watches too.  I've seen these with my own eyes, they're exceptionally good.  

2.  Chopard L.U.C has had some nice watches with some nice enamel dials.  The Chronometer 1931 is one that comes to mind.  

3.  Lange - Lange once made a watch (Richard Lange Pour Le Merite) that had a three-part enamel dial.  This was very difficult to manufacture because the company had to join these three fragile parts together.  Many watches therefore have tiny imperfections at a weak spot in the dial where it was easily chipped.  These enamel dials also have a nice bevel-ed edge in some areas.  A very highly regarded enamel dial.  Also look at the two-part enamel dial in the Langematik Anniversary (the one with the red colored XII on the dial).  I've seen these with my own eyes, you can sometimes detect the human element, but they're still great dials and very difficult to manufacture.  

4.  Piaget - there has been at least one Altiplano with a very nice enamel dial.  I believe one of our members own one of these exceptionally thin Altiplano watches in the rare limited version with the enamel dial.  This member is an expert on all things watches including enamel dials.  

5.  Breguet is known for enamel dials and dials in general.  However, the ones I've seen, I personally don't think they're done exceptionally well.  This doesn't mean they are done less than well either.    

6.  Jaeger-LeCoultre has enamel dials but also has miniature enamel painted dials which are even more interesting.  This is a different art, this is painting-art, but it's really cool.  Only two or three persons at the factory can do it (check with user "amanico" for the latest info from JLC, he's our resident JLC expert).  

7.  Glashutte Original has something entirely different.  Bone-china porcelain dials!  Made by MEISSEN (I'm a big fan of Meissen porcelain)!  This isn't a traditional enamel dial, it's completely different, but still something interesting.  

8.  Patek Philippe has some models with enamel dials now and then.  They're rare, but not that rare.  Nothing particularly superlative about their enamel dials, just they're done very well (keep in mind, the Stern family used to be in the dial business) in both manufacturing and design.  They are extremely well executed dials, just plain good.  But still plain.  I've seen these with my own eyes and I consider them to be great traditional enamel dials.  

9.  Vacheron Constantin...  I haven't seen that many enamel dials by Vacheron Constantin, so I can't say I really know them well.  

Hope this helps!  

More posts: Chronograph grand feu enamelCollection VilleretLangematikLangematik AnniversaryRichard Lange

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